Travelfish #306: Malang + Airport mayhem + 15% off Intrepid Asia trips

Everywhere is on the way to somewhere Hi all, It is great to be back in Bali after a week wandering around in downtown Bangkok—a city we once lived in remains a great destination for a few days and we’ll have a couple of new places to stay profiled this coming week. Meanwhile, new on the site we have [Malang]( in East Java. Coming this week, we have more northern Laos, eastern Thailand, central Indonesia and perhaps a new itinerary or two. If you’re looking for a quick break, adventure tour operator Intrepid has a 15% off Asia adventure trips from now till May 10. [Be quick and book now!]( Good travels Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish crew Support Travelfish! If you'd like to chip in (if you haven’t already) for using the site, we'd love you to sign up for a year-long subscription for just A$35. [See more here](. Exclusive for Travelfish readers: Save an additional 7% at Agoda [Use promo code Tfishpromo »]( Soapbox The face of overtourism I was in Bangkok last week and on Sunday I got a cab out to Bangkok’s original and venerable airport, Don Muang—the oldest still-operating airport in Asia. While it has a certain old world charm to it, overall it hasn’t aged well. When the taxi dropped me off I walked into terminal to be greeted by absolute bedlam. The airport is clearly operating at well over its capacity and there are few better illustrations of overtourism than Don Muang International Terminal at about 2pm on a Sunday, take my word for it. As already mentioned the terminal was just heaving with people, but the noise—people talking (and yelling) continual PA announcements, the never ending rumble rumble of wheelie bags. Arrrggghhhh! Luckily I only had carry-on so I was able to check-in at a kiosk, as the check-in queues were folded about five deep that alone saved me probably 45 minutes. Then through into immigration, another five fold snaking queue, then through into security, where insufficient screeners were complemented by passengers who would wait until they were right at the x-ray before they started removing metal objects and so on. Once through I found a bench to re-pack my bag and so on, and it had a sticker on it reading “Recomposure Area” which seemed totally appropriate—I was exhausted. My AirAsia flight was leaving from a downstairs gate area where AirAsia has deftly recreated the bedlam of the old LCCT terminal at Kuala Lumpur—the racket, insufficient seating, garbage everywhere. A couple of metres from me was a hot water dispenser where passengers queued to fill instant noodle cups for a last minute noodle hit before the flight—the area was filthy and smelt of carpet soaked in noodle water. A least my flight left on time. By all accounts, by experience was far from abnormal—social media is awash in photos of queues even worse than what I encountered—and, to be honest, I don’t expect premium service when I am paying for a far from premium carrier. What I don’t expect is to be treated like cattle. Where should the finger be pointed? AirAsia, Airports Authority, TAT, the Thai junta? They all deserve at least one finger. But more to the point, I would definitely pay more next time I fly to Bangkok to avoid using Don Muang (yes I know Bangkok’s other airport can be equally bad)—I have experienced more than my fair share of crappy airport experiences, but never one as bad as last Sunday’s. I wonder though, if I’m willing to pay more to avoid that particular airport, how many others are contemplating paying more to simply go to another country? Safe travels Stuart Premium members only: Book a round the world with [roundtheworldflights.com]( (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get £30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2018. Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and [start designing your own round the world trip »]( What we’re reading The Garden of Evening Mists by Tan Twan Eng Read it on a creaking Malaysian train and [be transported back to several eras of history]( — times that were in their own way just as complicated, challenging and colourful as today in Malaysia. Thank you Just a few quick words of thanks to businesses who have decided to advertise direct with us on Travelfish recently. If you know a business, small or large, who may be interested in advertising on the site, please send them our [One Page Media Kit!]( Other advertisers include [Asia Highlights]( offer tailor made travel through Vietnam, [Take Me Tour]( offer experiences with locals out of Chiang Mai, [Akha Kitchen]( offer Thai cooking classes in Chiang Rai, WWOOF Thailand [connect hosts and organic farm volunteers]( and VD Travel offer [trending itineraries across the region](. Featured Malang While [Malang’s roots]( go way back to 760 AD, much of what you see today has its foundations set in far more recent years when the Dutch colonialists were kicking around and today, at least by Indonesian standards, the mid-sized city has a distinct European feel to it. Wide, tree-lined boulevards, prominently placed churches, Art Deco buildings and a leafy laid back area to the northwest with plenty of open air eating, make the city feel unlike many other urban centres in Java. A university town, Malang is home to a rich assortment of cafes, and (for East Java) a good selection of bars. While at its heart you’ll find an interesting array of kampung villages which you can explore either on a [walking tour]( or just wandering by yourself. Other attractions include [historic temples]( and [bountiful eating](. Ideally placed for a well paced sojourn through eastern Java, and well serviced by train, bur and plane, break the journey from Surabaya to Bromo here (rather than the more popular route via Probolinggo) or visit it as a destination in its own right. Travelfish partners Asia may be on the other side of the planet, but if any continent is worth the long-haul leg cramps, this is it. Book an Asia trip from Intrepid between May 1 & May 10, 2018 and we will take 15% OFF [15% off Intrepid adventure trips to Asia]( News from the region BURMA I: Myanmar speeds up evisa procedure with express service “The express eVisa will be available for a US$56 fee compared to US$50 for the standard eVisa. [The biggest advantage]( is to receive the approval within 24 hours following the registration and payment with credit card.” BURMA III: In northern Myanmar, forgotten Kachin conflict intensifies “The Kachin, who are mostly Christian, [have fought for greater autonomy]( in this predominantly Buddhist nation since 1961. But their campaign is part of a much broader struggle for power pitting the ethnic Burman majority — who control the all-powerful military and top government posts — against dozens of ethnic minorities.” BURMA II: How a massive influx of Chinese migrants has changed Myanmar’s second-largest city Mandalay “This once quintessential Burmese metropolis, residents say, is losing its traditions as a massive influx of Chinese migrants [reshapes it in their own likeness]( OVERTOURISM: Can Indonesia’s Komodo Dragons survive Chinese tourists? “But fortunes could change for Labuan Bajo come May, when the park will receive its first large tour groups from China. Between then and the end of next year, 100 Chinese tourists are expected to arrive on the park’s shores every day, according to officials. That compares to an average of just 50 Chinese tourists a month since 2016 [and even fewer before that]( THAILAND I: The day my best friend drowned on a Phuket day tour “I have to admit the scenery was beautiful, but we have [huge concerns]( about health and safety training and procedures of staff on the boat as well as beaches.” THAILAND II: The economic cost of conflict in Thailand’s deep south “For almost two decades, a violent ethnic-Malay Muslim separatist insurgency in Narathiwat, Pattani and Yala provinces has deterred both tourists and investors. The conflict, which has claimed some 7,000 lives, has occasionally spilled over into neighbouring Songkhla, the heart of the regional economy. As a result, this otherwise high-potential part of the country [has missed Thailand’s tourism boom]( and been ignored as an industrial base.” THAILAND III: Don Mueang gets new terminal “The Airports of Thailand Plc (AoT) has decided to demolish Don Mueang International Airport's old terminal and build a new one to accommodate soaring international passenger numbers.” [THANK GOD](. VIETNAM I: After Phu Quoc, Hoi An Is Getting a $4bn Casino Complex “Located 30 kilometers south of Da Nang, the company has advertised a “self-contained world of entertainment, leisure, pleasure and luxury living.” The resort will [stretch along two kilometers of coastline]( VIETNAM II: Conservation concerns as yet another resort pushed to take over beaches in Vietnam “Many people demanded an explanation at a meeting with the authorities on Friday as the project was greenlighted while those living in the affected area [had not been informed]( VIETNAM III: To street vendors in Vietnam’s biggest cities, sidewalk is a lifeline “Everyday, tens of thousands of vendors leave their rented apartments in big cities for busy streets to pay off debts [and keep their families in the countryside afloat]( Travel writing INDONESIA: Bogor not Bali shows Indonesia's huge potential “It’s a great credit to the people of Indonesia that they have worked through the trials, as well as benefits, of colonisation and [emerged as a strong independent people]( THAILAND I: A Garlicky Stir-Fry With Basil Leaves From Bangkok “ “There’s no such thing as [authenticity]( at least not as most people understand it,” she said.” THAILAND II: Thailand's Elderly Games - in pictures “Competitors in northern Nan province defied age stereotypes and searing heat in the government-backed event to promote [an active lifestyle among older people]( THAILAND III: Symbolism & Ceremony at Thai Funerals “Next, listen in for a conversation about [Thai funerals]( with frequent podcast guest Phra Pandit, a British-born Buddhist monk here in Thailand.” TRAVEL SAFETY: 5 Ways to Stay Safe on Bus Trips Abroad “After a crash, bus companies often close down, repaint their vehicles, and reopen under new names. “Look at the vehicle and ask yourself,” Ms. Sobel said “‘[is this the wisest choice?]( ” Interesting site Stranger Talk Documenting the faces and places we've come across through our adventures in foreign lands – this is Strangertalk, [an award-winning visual journal]( by Eloise Basuki and Leigh Griffiths. Travel shot [Pack sunglasses. Photo: Sally Arnold] Pack sunglasses. Photo: Sally Arnold Till next time [Sam and Stuart.] That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia. Travel light! Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team [( You're receiving the Travelfish newsletter because you signed up at Travelfish.org. Not interested anymore? [Unsubscribe Instantly](. Make sure you're getting our emails! If you're a Gmail user and would prefer your Travelfish newsletter in your Primary in-box rather than Promotions, just drag this email from the Promotions tab to the Primary tab, and click "yes" when it asks if you want to do that for all of our emails. 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