The Bite (Issue 71): The perfect sandwich for Lent

(Hint: It isn't fried fish) [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbW90ZXU0ZW04NS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1VwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) When I begin to get antsy from early-in-the-year cabin fever, there are certain signs that I look for as indications that spring really is about to return: when the relative drab silence of winter is no longer just punctuated by an occasional whipping howl of wind off the Lake, but by the light tittering of sparrows, lean from the cold; when the [grape vines](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaHo0dWdmcGFlYS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)that are knotted and slung over the fences in my neighborhood begin to pop with buds; and when Chicago [delis](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNHpudnoxazBtYi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), [diners](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaHQyOTkzeXE5MC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and [sandwich stands](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvN2NzYTZqNnRsdy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) begin to advertise pepper and egg sandwiches. As the name would suggest, it’s a no-nonsense sandwich. Eggs that have been whipped and salted are [scrambled](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMXN6ZTJ5dXZ4ci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) over a flash of heat in a puddle of [olive oil](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvenAyYmhycm44Yy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), [melted butter](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNG02a2FpZWo3dS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) or sometimes both. They’re then adorned with hunks of seasoned, roasted green bell peppers whose slightly charred skin gives way to a bittersweet center. This mixture is then stacked high on bread. A [French loaf](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbDB2aHU4dHRsZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) is classic, but I can’t pass up a sesame deli roll if it’s on the menu. Some places offer add-ins, like [mozzarella cheese](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNDV6ZjJveDBibS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)or cherry peppers, but I’d argue that’s gilding the lily. A pepper and egg sandwich is simultaneously unremarkable and transcendent in its simplicity — a statement that’s perhaps fitting given its religious origins. The sandwich is believed to have been developed by [Italian immigrants](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvajF4cXlvdWpqNy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)who came to Chicago in the late 19th or early 20th century. The city had, and still has, a large Catholic population and, at that point in time, devout Catholics abstained from eating meat on Fridays. By the 1960s, this spiritual requirement was amended and believers would still abstain from eating meat, however only on Fridays between Ash Wednesday and Easter, the 40-day period known as Lent. In addition to being very Catholic, Chicago was also an incredibly meat-centric town. As poet Carl Sandberg [wrote in 1914](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbzF2dHd5aGVtMC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1VwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), it was the “Hog Butcher for the World,” rich in slaughterhouses and meatpacking plants. This presented a problem for many restaurant owners who saw business slow down significantly on early spring Fridays. That’s when the pepper and egg sandwich migrated out of the domain of home cooks and onto menus. To this day, joints that are focused on fare like[Italian beef](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvY3MxZGdjdzF5ei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (like Luke’s, Ferro’s and Al’s #1) and[hot dogs](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYjhmZ2ZoanR1ZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)(Portillo’s and The Dog Stop) for the other 235 days of the year offer pepper and egg. It’s not a Chicago-specific dish, of course — I’ve stumbled into a few New York City bodegas that will whip them up, as well as Italian delis dotting the East Coast. However, they don’t seem as closely related to Lent in other cities. I was born here, but moved to Louisville for about ten years. There, [fish fries](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdWMzemE4d3k3bi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) reigned supreme and I grew to love how the malty smell of beer, for both battering and drinking, seemed to swell in the city right before Friday rush hour. Yet, I never regarded it as the harbinger of spring in the way that I do pepper and egg sandwiches. When I moved back to Chicago in the dead of winter last year, I eagerly awaited for restaurants to start advertising their advent. After all, even if I’ve shed some of my Catholic school teachings, these sandwiches — in their buttery, salty and slightly pungent splendor — taste like home. In this week’s issue of The Bite, Salon Food’s weekly newsletter, I’m pulling a few of my favorite stories from the archive that remind me of spring. I know we aren’t quite there yet (“false spring,” as my grandmother would have said), but I’m feeling hopeful we’ll be there soon. — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor Dispatches from Salon Food's archives - [Give peas a chance? It's time for their turn in the "it vegetable" spotlight](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaGw3NXc2dTRndS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [It's time to spring clean your condiment collectionÂ](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcWx4YnA2dDA1dy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Spring is here! Time to celebrate the arrival of alliums](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvem91b2MwdnRzMy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [This genius shrimp and spaghetti deserves a spot on your spring dinner rotation](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaGp1dGozczJyMi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [These mini blueberry and lemon upside-down cakes are a decadent dessert or breakfast treat](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNGRiem53dXZieC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvd3Jucmd2MHg2Yi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1VwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! What to make for dinner this weekend If you’re looking for something cheap and hearty, this[spring-inspired pasta e ceci](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvb2dyaWhiYjFwZC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) is the weekend recipe for you. It is packed with dill and citrus zest and whipped chickpeas make for a delectably creamy non-dairy sauce. Serve it alongside a good orange wine or, even better, a strong gin martini with a twist (trust me) and appreciate the fact that the sun is setting after 5 p.m. these days. From our writers - ["What's your specialty today?": Trump brags that he knows McDonald's menu "better" than employees](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOTc3dzhjdXEzNy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)(Michael La Corte) - [Velveeta belongs in your desserts — including this nostalgic play on apple pie](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZWt6azZmb2l5bS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Bibi Hutchings) - [This red chimichurri has a dirty little ‘90s secret](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMva2szMWV1NXAwbC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)(Maggie Hennessy) - [This classic 1930s diner is free to a good owner — if you can move it](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNHI3dzJjNmtqNy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [A crusty, comforting loaf of rustic bread in just one hour — really](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaWowZG85anNjdS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [Lessons in resilience from Chicago's winter grapes](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZnVyZWxsbDh1cS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [The unexpected history of Aldi’s first United States store](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNzV4YmI2dTQ3ai8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [Here’s how to enjoy a plant-based Mardi Gras without forgoing any of the fun](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdDRuMXViaWF3YS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [From Olive Garden to fine dining, how Andes Mints became part of eating out in America](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNGx0MHg0dXB0dy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) What we're reading - [Fountains of Youths: One grown-ass woman’s descent into the soul of the American teen on their home turf — the mall food court](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMGo1OTU5OHExei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1VwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Eater) - [He ate ribs from a middle seat on a plane. Online outrage ensued](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdzN6Y3M4Njlvei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1hbGQwd3R0MDc1VwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). (The Washington Post) [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmP2YAb6Y5H6QYtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2023 The Bite, All rights reserved. 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200, Wilmington, DE 19801 [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRl3ItgP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpj9mAG-mOR-kGLUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)