The Bite (Issue 34): For Tony

Our favorite work by and about Bourdain In his book “No Reservations: Around the World on an Empty Stomach,” Anthony Bourdain wrote of travel: “The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” Four years ago this week, the beloved chef, author and television host died by suicide; his death was one that absolutely shook the restaurant industry — and those who love it — to its core precisely because he so embodied that sentiment. Watching Bourdain travel, through his shows like “No Reservations” and “Parts Unknown,” was engrossing because he threw himself into experiences completely. I can close my eyes and vividly envision him folding his 6-foot-4 body onto a tiny plastic stool to eat street-side noodles in Vietnam, or bundling up in a ridiculously puffy coat for ice fishing in Montreal. Those moments stick with me precisely because he was so present for them; Bourdain was obviously eager to be changed by travel and he left a lot of good behind. The industry as a whole, as well as some of those closest to him, are still trying to parse out the full scope of his impact, as evidenced by a spate of projects centered on the chef. This week in “The Bite” we’re going to take a dive into some pieces from our archives that highlight Bourdain, or were written by the man himself. This weekend, try to take Tony’s advice: Wherever you go, leave something good behind. — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor. *** If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~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~~) so you don't miss anything! *** Our favorite pieces about (or by) Bourdain: - Bourdain wrote two wildly different essays for Salon, one in 2006 and the other in 2008. The first, “[Watching Beirut die](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0QxaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMDYvMDcvMjgvYm91cmRhaW5fYmVpcnV0L1cDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)” is an account of how Bourdain and his film crew visited the city to showcase its newly vibrant culinary and cultural scene — then the bombs started falling. It’s the kind of vivid, empathetic writing at which he excelled. The second essay, “[Kitchen god](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0QraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMDAvMTIvMjAva2l0Y2hlbl8yL1cDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)” is decidedly more jocular. It recounts the “the sexy, voyeuristic moment he decided to become a chef.” - In an April 2017 appearance on["Salon Talks,"](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0QlaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tL3R2L3ZpZGVvLzUzMTczOFcDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) Anthony Bourdain sits down with Salon's Alli Joseph, director Lydia Tenaglia and celebrated chef Jeremiah Tower, the subject of the documentary "Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent" that Bourdain executive produced for CNN. Bourdain reflects on the changing role of the chef, his love of food and reveals his favorite city to dine in. - “Roadrunner: A Film About Anthony Bourdain" is now streaming on HBO Max .[Check the trailer for the documentary](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0R0aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDYvMDQvY2hlY2stb3V0LXRoZS10cmFpbGVyLWZvci10aGUtcG9pZ25hbnQtbmV3LWFudGhvbnktYm91cmRhaW4tZG9jdW1lbnRhcnktcm9hZHJ1bm5lci9XA3NwY0IKYprXg6RiSAVuaVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl), which is directed by Academy Award-winning filmmaker Morgan Neville. The film is plagued by some messiness — from the controversial use of [AI to mimic Bourdain’s voice](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubmV3eW9ya2VyLmNvbS9jdWx0dXJlL2FubmFscy1vZi1nYXN0cm9ub215L3RoZS1ldGhpY3Mtb2YtYS1kZWVwZmFrZS1hbnRob255LWJvdXJkYWluLXZvaWNlVwNzcGNCCmKa14OkYkgFbmlSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) to the framing of Asia Argento, the chef’s partner at the time of his death — but it’s ultimately a touching tribute to the man and the myths surrounding him. Your weekend dinner plans On “Parts Unknown: Libya,” Bourdain said “I've said it before, and I'll say it again: barbecue may not be the road to world peace… but it's a start.” I’m inclined to agree, especially as it’s the season for it, too. Take a dive into “The Brisket Chronicles.” Author Steve Raichlin’s[breakdown of the ideal brisket](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0R1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMTkvMDUvMjUvc2FpbnQtc3RldmVuLXJhaWNobGVucy1lcGlzdGxlLXRvLXRoZS1icmlza2V0ZWVycy1pcy13aGF0LXlvdS1uZWVkLWZvci1tZW1vcmlhbC1kYXkvVwNzcGNCCmKa14OkYkgFbmlSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and, if you’re cooking out this weekend, add his[red eye barbecue sauce](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0QlaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tL3R2L3ZpZGVvLzc5MDY3OVcDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) to the rotation. If you’re already going to be spending time on the grill, consider using it for something other than meat, too. With the help of the Institute of Culinary Education, I put together a list of[seven vegetables you should absolutely be grilling](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0RbaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDYvMTUvNy12ZWdldGFibGVzLXRoYXQteW91LXNob3VsZC1hYnNvbHV0ZWx5LWdyaWxsLXRoaXMtc3VtbWVyL1cDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~). Basically, if you need me this summer, you can find me by the pool eating grilled (parboiled) potatoes dunked in[lemon-garlic aioli.](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0R8aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDMvMjgvaXMtYWlvbGktanVzdC1mYW5jeS1tYXlvbm5haXNlLXBsdXMtdGhlLXNlY3JldC1mb3ItZ2V0dGluZy1hbnkteW9say1iYXNlZC1zYXVjZS10by10aGlja2VuL1cDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) From our columnists - [If universal free school meals end, moms and teachers will be left to navigate child hunger](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0R8aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDYvMDcvaWYtdW5pdmVyc2FsLWZyZWUtc2Nob29sLW1lYWxzLWVuZC1tb21zLWFuZC10ZWFjaGVycy13aWxsLWJlLWxlZnQtdG8tbmF2aWdhdGUtY2hpbGQtaHVuZ2VyL1cDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [The pancake recipe that will make you fall in love with . . . beets](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0RiaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDYvMDkvdGhlLXBhbmNha2UtcmVjaXBlLXRoYXQtd2lsbC1tYWtlLXlvdS1mYWxsLWluLWxvdmUtd2l0aC0tLS1iZWV0cy9XA3NwY0IKYprXg6RiSAVuaVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [Want perfectly crispy chicken cutlets? Time to grab your air fryer](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0RjaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDYvMTAvd2FudC1wZXJmZWN0bHktY3Jpc3B5LWNoaWNrZW4tY3V0bGV0cy10aW1lLXRvLWdyYWIteW91ci1haXItZnJ5ZXIvVwNzcGNCCmKa14OkYkgFbmlSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) What we’re reading - “[World Travel: An Irreverent Guide](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0RNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYW1hem9uLmNvbS9Xb3JsZC1UcmF2ZWwtSXJyZXZlcmVudC1BbnRob255LUJvdXJkYWluL2RwLzAwNjI4MDI3OThXA3NwY0IKYprXg6RiSAVuaVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl)” was a collaboration between Bourdain and his longtime assistant Laurie Woolever, which she committed to finishing following his death. It features notes on where to stay, what to do and — most importantly — what to eat in places ranging from Chicago (featuring some input from legendary music producer Steve Albini) to Borneo. Supplementing Bourdain’s words are essays by friends, colleagues and family members. - Tom Taylor has written a tremendous piece called “[The Instagram Memorial of Anthony Bourdain](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0RLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ3J1YnN0cmVldC5jb20vMjAyMS8wNi9hbnRob255LWJvdXJkYWluLWluc3RhZ3JhbS1tZW1vcmlhbC5odG1sVwNzcGNCCmKa14OkYkgFbmlSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” over on Grub Street. Per Taylor, Bourdain’s final Instagram post — a photograph of a slab of pork, served with sauerkraut and a potato and captioned “Light lunch” — has “transformed into something of a virtual tombstone, simultaneously comforting and stoking the grief of those who visit it.” It’s a really poignant contemplation on grief in the digital age and Bourdain’s enduring legacy. Our mailing address: 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200 Wilmington, DE 19801 [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmKa14OkYkgFbmlSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2022 The Bite, All rights reserved. [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkhwjXP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpimteDpGJIBW5pUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)