The Bite (Issue 29): Our contentious faves

Those love 'em or hate 'em foods As someone who covered spirits in Kentucky for over a decade, let me let you in on a little secret: Mint juleps aren’t exactly universally beloved there. In fact, ordering one at a Louisville bar is the quickest way to get pegged for a [Derby-time tourist](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RPaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDUvMDUvdGhlLWNvcnJ1cHQtbm9zdGFsZ2lhLW9mLW15LW9sZC1rZW50dWNreS1ob21lL1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) because no one really goes around ordering them otherwise — save, perhaps, a single obligatory trackside julep in the name of tradition. The main complaint I’ve heard (and experienced) is that juleps tend to veer too sweet; this makes sense as a typical mint julep is made by combining [bourbon](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0Q4aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDIvMjUvZ29sZC1ydXNoLWRyaW5rLXJlY2lwZS9XA3NwY0IKYnFWX3ZiYyOzTFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl), mint and a simple sugar syrup over ice. When the mixture is off, it can taste like someone raided the liquor cabinet then muddled the spoils with toothpaste and table sugar. This is especially true if the [cocktail](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0QnaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tL3RvcGljL29yYWNsZV9wb3VyVwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)is made with the cloying julep mix found at the supermarket or big-box liquor stores. That said, Kentucky bartenders spend the weeks before Derby easily slinging thousands of juleps. So what do they think of the contentious beverage? The overwhelming consensus is that there are probably better ways to enjoy one’s bourbon, though there are bartenders looking to change that. Mint juleps. “Our palates crave some bitterness and acid no matter what, so it’s a real sugar bomb with no balance to it,” said Nicole Stipp, the co-founder of [Matson & Gilman](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0QdaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubWF0c29uZ2lsbWFuLmNvbS9XA3NwY0IKYnFWX3ZiYyOzTFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl), a bourbon-centered concierge service in Louisville. “In a city full of talented, inventive bartenders, the julep just falls to the wayside when you have such incredible libations to choose from.” Beyond that, Eron Plevan, the beverage director and bar manager at [Gold Bar](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29sZGJhcmxvdWlzdmlsbGUuY29tL1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~), said that they can be a pain to make well. “I think most bartenders give a good eye-roll to the mint julep because for all the trouble it’s just an Old Fashioned, but with three-times the work,” he said. “First, you have to go find a decent non-rusted julep tin — something many bars don’t have. Then you have to crush the ice by hand [and] during volume this is annoying, especially if you don’t have the proper tools.” Finally, you have to have good mint. “Once again, something many bars rarely have,” he said. “In addition to all of these things, you have to muddle the mint properly then make sure you have a nice, aromatic bouquet for garnish instead of something with limp or wilted leaves. At the end of the day, making a mint julep requires all the labor of a mojito with all the taste of a bad, sad-looking Old Fashioned.” That said, Plevan and other bartenders have found ways to flex their creativity within the realm of the julep. “Even though a julep is rarely a pro’s favorite, I think playing around with the formula a bit makes juleps better,” said Felicia Corbett, the beverage director of [Louisville’s Trouble Bar](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0QoaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubWF0c29uZ2lsbWFuLmNvbS90cm91YmxlLWJhclcDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~). “I always enjoy adding fruit or herbs. Another fun way to zhuzh up a mint julep is to play with the syrup. You can add anything to your simple syrup or go for a completely different sweetener like balsamic reduction, honey or maple syrup. The world is your oyster!” Similarly, Plevan has enjoyed experimenting with different syrups, like strawberry or peach, to radically alter the drink’s flavor. “Using herbs and spices like basil, sage, or cinnamon can make for an unforgettable julep,” he said. “Everything has its place, so I’m happy to make a julep under the right circumstances.” Meanwhile, Samantha Montgomery, the national brand ambassador for the [Bardstown Bourbon Company](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0QhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYmFyZHN0b3duYm91cmJvbi5jb20vVwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), maintains that many of those who think they don’t like mint juleps perhaps just haven’t had a good one. “I feel like if you have it the right way, to your desired sweetness, plus fresh mint in a cold julep tin with that little cap of crushed ice,” Montgomery said. “If you have it like that, it’s impossible not to enjoy. It’s actually one of my favorite cocktails.” For this week’s issue of “The Bite,” Salon Food’s weekly newsletter, I dug into our archives for some of my favorite stories about equally contentious items — from beer to cottage cheese. I’d love to hear about the food you love that everyone seems to hate (or vice-versa). Give us a shout at food@salon.com — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor. *** If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~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-VwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! *** On our contentious favorites - [In defense of Natural Light, the unfairly maligned O.G. light brew](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDgvMjkvaW4tZGVmZW5zZS1vZi1uYXR1cmFsLWxpZ2h0LXRoZS11bmZhaXJseS1tYWxpZ25lZC1vZy1saWdodC1icmV3L1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) - [Consider the lobster thermidor: In defense of mixing seafood and cheese — sometimes](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RyaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDgvMjgvY29uc2lkZXItdGhlLWxvYnN0ZXItdGhlcm1pZG9yLWluLWRlZmVuc2Utb2YtbWl4aW5nLXNlYWZvb2QtYW5kLWNoZWVzZS1zb21ldGltZXMvVwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Cottage cheese isn't tasteless — you just need to buy the good stuff](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RkaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDgvMjMvY290dGFnZS1jaGVlc2UtaXNudC10YXN0ZWxlc3MtLXlvdS1qdXN0LW5lZWQtdG8tYnV5LXRoZS1nb29kLXN0dWZmL1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) - [The IPA is dead, long live the IPA: Why the love-it-or-hate-it beer is here to stay](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RzaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMjYvdGhlLWlwYS1pcy1kZWFkLWxvbmctbGl2ZS10aGUtaXBhLXdoeS10aGUtbG92ZS1pdC1vci1oYXRlLWl0LWJlZXItaXMtaGVyZS10by1zdGF5L1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) Your weekend dinner plans By far, our most popular recipe this week has been [Mary Elizabeth Williams’ onion rings](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RZaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDUvMDEvaXRzLWFsbW9zdC10b28tZWFzeS10by1tYWtlLWhvdC1mcmVzaC1mcmllZC1vbmlvbi1yaW5ncy9XA3NwY0IKYnFWX3ZiYyOzTFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl). They are, as she says, almost too easy to make — relying on pancake batter and beer for a crisp, light coating. Honestly, I could eat these with an ice-cold bubbly cocktail like this[French 75](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0SDaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDEvMjgvaG93LXRvLW1ha2UtYS1wZXJmZWN0LWZyZW5jaC03NS10aGUtZ2luLWNvY2t0YWlsLXdpdGgtdGhlLXdlbGNvbWUtZWZmZXJ2ZXNjZW5jZS1vZi1zcGFya2xpbmctd2luZS9XA3NwY0IKYnFWX3ZiYyOzTFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) and call it an evening. If you are, however, looking for something a little more substantial, they would make a perfect pairing for a [jalapeno popper-inspired grilled cheese](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RiaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDUvMDUvamFsYXBlby1wb3BwZXItZ3JpbGxlZC1jaGVlc2UtaXMtd2hhdC1kcmVhbXMtYXJlLW1hZGUtb2ZfcGFydG5lci9XA3NwY0IKYnFWX3ZiYyOzTFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl). From our columnists - [From suffrage to abortion access: A brief, subversive history of women baking for liberation](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0R8aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDUvMDMvZnJvbS1zdWZmcmFnZS10by1hYm9ydGlvbi1hY2Nlc3MtYS1icmllZi1zdWJ2ZXJzaXZlLWhpc3Rvcnktb2Ytd29tZW4tYmFraW5nLWZvci1saWJlcmF0aW9uL1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [These 4-ingredient dulce de leche lava cakes are a showstopper — and they bake in under 15 minutes](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0SDaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDUvMDUvdGhlc2UtNC1pbmdyZWRpZW50LWR1bGNlLWRlLWxlY2hlLWxhdmEtY2FrZXMtYXJlLWEtc2hvd3N0b3BwZXItLWFuZC10aGV5LWJha2UtaW4tdW5kZXItMTUtbWludXRlcy9XA3NwY0IKYnFWX3ZiYyOzTFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [You're 4 ingredients away from decadent chocolate truffles — no candy-making experience needed](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0R-aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDUvMDIveW91cmUtNC1pbmdyZWRpZW50cy1hd2F5LWZyb20tZGVjYWRlbnQtY2hvY29sYXRlLXRydWZmbGVzLS1uby1jYW5keS1tYWtpbmctZXhwZXJpZW5jZS1uZWVkZWQvVwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) What we’re reading - [Who’s the Most Food-Famous of Them All?](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RFaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZWF0ZXIuY29tLzIzMDQ5MjYzL3BvcHVsYXItZm9vZC1jZWxlYnJpdGllcy1nb29nbGUtdHJlbmRzVwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Eater) - [The Dish Our Customers Will Never Let Us Take Off the Menu](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0RMaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8wNS8wNC9tYWdhemluZS9jaGFyZ3JpbGxlZC1icm9jY29saS1yZWNpcGUuaHRtbFcDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (New York Times) Our mailing address: 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200 Wilmington, DE 19801 [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmJxVl92YmMjs0xSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2022 The Bite, All rights reserved. [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkWORVP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpicVZfdmJjI7NMUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)