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The Bite (Issue 24) You can't skip lunch

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salon.com

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Sat, Apr 2, 2022 12:00 PM

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You just can't Working from home has radically changed my relationship with lunch. Through college a

You just can't Working from home has radically changed my relationship with lunch. Through college and my first few newsroom jobs, I didn’t make it a priority to take time out of the middle of my day to eat. I was too busy, a statement that I wore like a badge of honor while downing my third [iced coffee](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RlaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDQvMTIvaG93LXRvLW1ha2UtYmV0dGVyLWNvZmZlZS1hdC1ob21lLXNpbXBseS1hbmQtd2l0aG91dC1leHBlbnNpdmUtZ2Vhci9XA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) of the day (but in retrospect was steeped in [ill-conceived Girl Boss aspirations](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RUaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDIvMjYvaS1jYXJlLWEtbG90LW5lb2xpYmVyYWwtZ2lybGJvc3MtZmVtaW5pc20tY3JpdGlxdWUvVwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and the vestiges of an eating disorder). The caffeine sometimes kept me from dragging, but by the late afternoon, I would inevitably hit a wall and have to scrounge around the office for dusty purse candy or a stale granola bar. However, if the past few years of living through a pandemic has taught me anything, it’s that taking a little extra time for the benefit of your body is invaluable. This looks different for different people of course. It could be going on, as Vogue put it in 2021, a “[silly little walk](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0Q7aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cudm9ndWUuY29tL2FydGljbGUvcmlzZS1vZi10aGUtc2lsbHktbGl0dGxlLXdhbGtXA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl)” for your mental health; it could be taking a glorious afternoon nap, silencing the voices that tell you that you should be up doing something “productive” instead. In my case, it’s been actually making myself lunch. I’m not fussy about what I make. While I tend to plot out a weekly menu for dinners, lunches are a little more loose. The only non-negotiables are that the lunches I prepare are vegetarian or vegan and, to borrow a phrase from comedian Tim Robinson, “[You can’t skip lunch — you just can’t](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cueW91dHViZS5jb20vd2F0Y2g_dj1IRnhCWC1tVF9Qd1cDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~).” Put another way, I just have to make something. It’s an act of self-care, but flexing my culinary muscles within my newly forged routine has actually been a lot of fun and I’ve ended up making some really delicious meals with bibs and bobs from my pantry and kitchen. They tend to follow a formula: There’s a quick-cooking carbohydrate, like instant rice, canned beans or toast; a simple protein, like tofu, edamame, chickpeas or eggs; and some fat, which is most often avocado, nut butter or a drizzle of olive oil. Promotion from Mcafee [Learn more](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZnZqdGJuMzVrMVcDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) Don't be naive! [Learn more](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZnZqdGJuMzVrMVcDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) There’s room for some mild intrigue in the formula, however, depending on what ingredients I have on hand. This week, for instance, I had some stunning early season radishes, sweet potatoes and scallions, as well as some errant cans of coconut milk and black beans. I used those to make meals like this: Lunch 1 Canned black beans that I honestly stewed down with a pinch or two of leftover taco seasoning, topped with a fried egg, sliced radish, avocado, scallions and pumpkin seeds. Lunch 2 Scrambled eggs with air-fried sweet potato slices (they only took 10 minutes in the air fryer!) and avocado topped with [this yuzu furikake](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QXaHR0cHM6Ly9hbXpuLnRvLzM1eVZGamdXA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) that I’m putting on everything these days. Lunch 3 Instant rice cooked in coconut milk with a splash of sesame oil, topped with a steamed egg yolk, avocado, housemade chili crisp (which was given to me by my favorite Vietnamese restaurant owner), peanuts and scallions. As you can see, these three dishes have some definite overlap, but they are distinct enough that I don’t get bored. I enter the afternoon feeling nourished and instead of taking pride in the fact that I’m so busy, I feel a small surge of accomplishment because I actually took care of myself. As more and more folks are heading back to the office in the coming months, lunch has been on my mind a bunch. What does a return to eating in the office look like? How have restaurants in business districts fared during the pandemic? How do you break out of a sad desk salad rut — whether you’re returning to the office or not? We’ll be tackling these questions and more at the end of this month as we prepare for an entire week of stories, essays, recipes and how-tos centered around lunch. In the meantime, in this edition of The Bite, Salon’s weekly food newsletter, we’re going to look back at some of our favorite lunch-appropriate recipes. Have any questions about lunch food you’d like to see answered later this month? Give us a shout at food@salon.com. — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP4QMAWh0dHA6Ly9wb3N0LnNwbWFpbHRlY2hub2wuY29tL2YvYS9oZTFhT0hxUlZTNEZON3dFQVE5ZUhnfn4vQUFTVTR3QX4vUmdSa0lZVmVQMFJWYUhSMGNITTZMeTl6WVd4dmJpNTFjemd1YkdsemRDMXRZVzVoWjJVdVkyOXRMM04xWW5OamNtbGlaVDkxUFRjeFkySXpaVGhoTm1VNU5qTTVZemd4TURJelkyUTBNamNtYVdROU5XUmxaR0V5WVdGaE4xY0RjM0JqUWdwaVBtRUFQMkliUDJqSVVoOWhjMmhzYVdWa1lXNXBaV3hzWlhOMFpYWmxibk5BWjIxaGFXd3VZMjl0V0FRQUFBQWxXA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) so you don't miss anything! Our favorite lunch recipes - [How to dig out of your next salad rut (plus, a panzanella recipe fit for a hearty lunch)](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RHaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMTAvMjAvaG93LXRvLWRpZy1vdXQtb2YteW91ci1uZXh0LXNhbGFkLXJ1dC9XA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) - [This crunchy, hearty Chicken Frito Salad is a sensational dinner that doesn't require a lot of prep](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RUaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDQvMjIvcmVjaXBlLXF1aWNrLWFuZC1kaXJ0eS1jcnVuY2h5LWNoaWNrZW4tZnJpdG8tc2FsYWQvVwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Clean-up is a breeze with these 6 easy-to-make soup recipes you can cook in one pot](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0R1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDMvMjEvY2xlYW4tdXAtaXMtYS1icmVlemUtd2l0aC10aGVzZS02LWVhc3ktdG8tbWFrZS1zb3VwLXJlY2lwZXMteW91LWNhbi1jb29rLWluLW9uZS1wb3QvVwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [The secret to the perfect grilled cheese, revealed](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RTaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMjAvdGhlLXNlY3JldC10by10aGUtcGVyZmVjdC1ncmlsbGVkLWNoZWVzZS1yZXZlYWxlZC9XA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) - [A lunch for when there's no time for lunch](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RIaHR0cHM6Ly9mb29kNTIuY29tL2Jsb2cvMjY2Mjctd2h5LWEtdHVuYS1zYW5kd2ljaC1pcy10aGUtc3BlZWRpZXN0LWx1bmNoVwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Your weekend dinner plans This week saw the launch of a new column at Salon, [Weekday Plants](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMjgvdGhpcy1vbmUtcG90LWNoaWNrcGVhLXBhc3RhLWhhcy10aGUtbW9zdC1jcmF2ZWFibGUtY3JlYW15LXNhdWNlL1cDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~), which is written by yours truly. A lot of people think of vegan food as being fussy, but these recipes are low on specialty ingredients and easy enough to put together on a weekday — though special enough for a weekend, too. Case in point: This [pasta e ceci-inspired spring pasta](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMjgvdGhpcy1vbmUtcG90LWNoaWNrcGVhLXBhc3RhLWhhcy10aGUtbW9zdC1jcmF2ZWFibGUtY3JlYW15LXNhdWNlL1cDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) packed with chickpeas, green peas and lots and lots of dill. This would be perfect with a really citrus-y white wine and a salad of bitter greens. For dessert? Give Mary Elizabeth Williams’ [Sicilian Love Cake](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QuaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tL3RvcGljL3NpY2lsaWFuX2xvdmVfY2FrZVcDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) a try. From our columnists - [It's nostalgic to watch amateur cooks tackle Julia Child's oeuvre—but this "challenge" also irks me](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0SAaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMjkvaXRzLW5vc3RhbGdpYy10by13YXRjaC1hbWF0ZXVyLWNvb2tzLXRhY2tsZS1qdWxpYS1jaGlsZHMtb2V1dnJlYnV0LXRoaXMtY2hhbGxlbmdlLWFsc28taXJrcy1tZS9XA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Julie Powell) - [Maple bacon bark is your new salty-sweet addiction](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RUaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMzEvbWFwbGUtYmFjb24tYmFyay1pcy15b3VyLW5ldy1zYWx0eS1zd2VldC1hZGRpY3Rpb24vVwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [This one-pot chickpea pasta has the most craveable "creamy" sauce](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMjgvdGhpcy1vbmUtcG90LWNoaWNrcGVhLXBhc3RhLWhhcy10aGUtbW9zdC1jcmF2ZWFibGUtY3JlYW15LXNhdWNlL1cDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Ashlie Stevens) What we’re reading - [To Borrow His Favourite Catchphrase: F**k Me, Gordon Ramsay’s New Show Is Bad](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RIaHR0cHM6Ly9sb25kb24uZWF0ZXIuY29tLzIzMDA2MDQxL2dvcmRvbi1yYW1zYXktZnV0dXJlLWZvb2Qtc3RhcnMtcmV2aWV3VwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Eater London) - [Tortilla de Harina: A Moon of Mystery](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0RJaHR0cHM6Ly9hbmRyZWFhbGlzZWRhLnN1YnN0YWNrLmNvbS9wL3RvcnRpbGxhLWRlLWhhcmluYS1hLW1vb24tb2YtbXlzdGVyeVcDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Andrea Aliseda) - [City of Los Angeles to declare tacos the official food](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QXaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubGF0YWNvLmNvbS9XA3NwY0IKYj7XOkhiLq4XsFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (L.A. Taco) Salon Food writes about stuff we think you'll like. Salon has affiliate partnerships, so we may get a share of the revenue from your purchase. Our mailing address: 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200 Wilmington, DE 19801 [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmI-1zpIYi6uF7BSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2022 The Bite, All rights reserved. [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkKr_XP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpiPtc6SGIurhewUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)

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