The last time I touched down in Dubai back in 2015, the question I was asked over and over again was whether the Emirati city-state could become a global fashion capital: could it make the leap from being a mere consumer of fashion to a creator of fashion, bringing together the critical elements of a fashion industry ecosystem, from education and design, to manufacturing, finance and technology? ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0SLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1ib2ZfbG9nb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ ADVERTISEMENT ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0QWaHR0cHM6Ly9ib2YudG8vM1BqTjA3TVcFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TODAY: SATURDAY, MARCH 16, 2024 DUBAI â The last time I touched down in Dubai back in 2015, the question I was asked over and over again was whether the Emirati city-state could become a global fashion capital: could it make the leap from being a mere consumer of fashion to a creator of fashion, bringing together the critical elements of a fashion industry ecosystem, from education and design, to manufacturing, finance and technology? Back then, the big four fashion capitals â New York, London, Paris and Milan â still dominated the industry, and it seemed like a long-shot for Dubai, better known for conspicuous consumption than industry clout, to become a fashion hub of this stature. Eight years later, much has changed on planet fashion. London and New York, while still on the map, have lost ground as global fashion capitals. While London continues be the training ground for the industryâs top creative talent (Chemena Kamali and Seán McGirr who debuted this season as creative directors at [Chloé](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TUaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3Jldmlld3MvZmFzaGlvbi13ZWVrL2NobG9lLXBhcmlzLWZhc2hpb24td2Vlay13b21lbnN3ZWFyLWF1dHVtbi13aW50ZXItMjAyNC8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) and [McQueen](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TgaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3Jldmlld3MvZmFzaGlvbi13ZWVrL2FsZXhhbmRlci1tY3F1ZWVuLXBhcmlzLWZhc2hpb24td2Vlay13b21lbnN3ZWFyLWF1dHVtbi13aW50ZXItMjAyNC8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~), respectively, were both educated at Londonâs Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design), the city has been losing ground as a major fashion hub for years. Now, the implosion of Farfetch and Matches, and ongoing troubles at Net-a-Porter, have eroded Londonâs position as a hub for technological innovation in fashion and placed huge pressure on the cityâs independent designers who rely heavily on them for scale and global distribution. Across the pond, the challenges faced by Americaâs department stores have put similar pressures on New Yorkâs independent brands. At the same time, the cityâs one-time status as the industryâs commercial capital has waned, as Parisian mega-brands â Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermès â have surged to previously unimaginable scale. Meanwhile, Shanghai, which had taken the leading position in the race to become the fifth global fashion capital, has become increasingly cut-off from the rest of the fashion industry amid growing geopolitical tensions, a slowing economy and a lingering sense of insularity after Covid lockdowns. But the very notion of a fifth fashion capital may be a thing of the past. In a globalised world, the fashion industry, too, is more global than ever and the concept of fashion capitals may be shifting from a handful of citadels (which Shanghai or any other city might join) to a wider system of hubs, each with its own specialisation, orbiting one increasingly dominant centre: Paris. Milan (and now Mumbai) specialise in offering high-quality manufacturing, London produces top creative talent, Seoul and Los Angeles churn out brand ambassadors. And Paris, truly the worldâs fashion capital, is where it all comes together. So where does this leave Dubai? That was the question on my mind as I sat down with more than a dozen fashion professionals last week â several of whom were expats who had come to Dubai for six months only to find themselves still there more than 10 years later â to learn more about life and the behind the scenes of the fashion industry in this city. [â READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TOaHR0cHM6Ly9idXNpbmVzc29mZmFzaGlvbi5jb20vb3BpbmlvbnMvZ2xvYmFsLW1hcmtldHMvd2hhdC1pcy1kdWJhaXMtcGxhY2UtaW4tZmFzaGlvbnMtZ2xvYmFsLWVjb3N5c3RlbS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) This Weekend on The BoF Podcast ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0T0aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3BvZGNhc3RzL2NyZWF0aXZlLWNsYXNzL3RoZS1ib2YtcG9kY2FzdC1hbWlyLWZheW8tdGhlLXJldGFpbC1waGlsb3NvcGhlci1jcmVhdGluZy13YXZlcy1pbi1lZ3lwdC1hbmQtYmV5b25kLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ Last year, when I visited Cairo I visited a unique store concept called Maison69, the brainchild of [Amir Fayo](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0SiaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2NvbW11bml0eS9wZW9wbGUvYW1pci1mYXlvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTYwMzI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWludHJvVwVzcGNldUIKZe-OOPVlTt99PVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk), whose underlying philosophy is to create retail and hospitality concepts rooted in culture and connection. This week on [The BoF Podcast](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0T0aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3BvZGNhc3RzL2NyZWF0aXZlLWNsYXNzL3RoZS1ib2YtcG9kY2FzdC1hbWlyLWZheW8tdGhlLXJldGFpbC1waGlsb3NvcGhlci1jcmVhdGluZy13YXZlcy1pbi1lZ3lwdC1hbmQtYmV5b25kLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~), I sat down with Amir to discuss his unique personal history; his innovative and emotive approach to retail, and the philosophy that underpins it. [Imran Amed](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0STaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2ltcmFuLWFtZWQvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTYwMzI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWludHJvVwVzcGNldUIKZe-OOPVlTt99PVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk), Founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief, The Business of Fashion P.S. Limited in-person tickets remain to join us next week on March 22 at the [BoF Professional Summit](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP4QBAmh0dHBzOi8vY2xpY2tzLmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9mL2EvclNtRlNrbEZyNkU4TWRuRURNblFiZ35-L0FBQUhhZ0F-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~~) in New York. Save $100 off the full ticket price, using code BoFTECH100. [Purchase your ticket now](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0SyaHR0cHM6Ly9wYWdlcy5idXNpbmVzc29mZmFzaGlvbi5jb20vYm9mLXByb2Zlc3Npb25hbC10ZWNobm9sb2d5LXN1bW1pdC0yMDI0Lz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~). Plus, here are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty: 1. [How Zara Is Beating Shein.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0SzaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2JyaWVmaW5ncy9yZXRhaWwvaG93LXphcmEtaXMtYmVhdGluZy1zaGVpbi8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) By investing in an elevated product and shopping experience, Spanish retailers Inditex and Mango are seeing tremendous growth despite fierce competition from the likes of Temu and a cash-strapped consumer. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0SzaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2JyaWVmaW5ncy9yZXRhaWwvaG93LXphcmEtaXMtYmVhdGluZy1zaGVpbi8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~ 2. [The Strategy Behind Miu Miuâs Explosive Growth](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TEaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2x1eHVyeS9zdHJhdGVneS1taXUtbWl1LWV4cGxvc2l2ZS1ncm93dGgtY2VvLXByYWRhLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~). How did Miu Miu grow by 58 percent last year? CEO Benedetta Petruzzo breaks down the plan that has powered eye-popping acceleration in a slowing luxury market. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TEaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2x1eHVyeS9zdHJhdGVneS1taXUtbWl1LWV4cGxvc2l2ZS1ncm93dGgtY2VvLXByYWRhLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ 3. [Nikeâs Latest Sports Headache, Explained](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3JldGFpbC9uaWtlLWJhcmNlbG9uYS1raXQtZGlzcHV0ZS1zcG9ydHN3ZWFyLWpvYW4tbGFwb3J0YS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~). FC Barcelona may take its on-field kit and fan merchandise in-house after falling out with Nike. Football industry executives and rival sportswear brands will be watching its next moves closely. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3JldGFpbC9uaWtlLWJhcmNlbG9uYS1raXQtZGlzcHV0ZS1zcG9ydHN3ZWFyLWpvYW4tbGFwb3J0YS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~ 4. [Lightning in a Bottle: Tapping Into the Niche Fragrance Boom](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TJaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2JlYXV0eS9ob3ctbmV3LWJyYW5kcy10YXAtaW50by10aGUtbmljaGUtZnJhZ3JhbmNlLWJvb20vP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTYwMzI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWludHJvVwVzcGNldUIKZe-OOPVlTt99PVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk). With independent perfume on a hot streak for investments and acquisitions, the fragrance market is only growing larger â and more competitive. Hereâs what steps emerging brands need to take as they expand. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TJaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2JlYXV0eS9ob3ctbmV3LWJyYW5kcy10YXAtaW50by10aGUtbmljaGUtZnJhZ3JhbmNlLWJvb20vP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTYwMzI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWludHJvVwVzcGNldUIKZe-OOPVlTt99PVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk 5. [Whatâs Driving the Influencer Subscription Boom](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci93aGF0cy1kcml2aW5nLXRoZS1pbmZsdWVuY2VyLXN1YnNjcmlwdGlvbi1ib29tLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~). As social media users tune out ads, content creators are putting more of their content behind a paywall. The hope is they can build a deeper connection with their followers â and make more money, too. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP0TNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci93aGF0cy1kcml2aW5nLXRoZS1pbmZsdWVuY2VyLXN1YnNjcmlwdGlvbi1ib29tLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE2MDMyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1pbnRyb1cFc3BjZXVCCmXvjjj1ZU7ffT1SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ To receive this email in your inbox each Saturday, [sign up to The Daily Digest newsletter](~/AAAHagA~/RgRn172OP4TtAWh0dHBzOi8vY2xpY2tzLmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9mL2EvOFM3RER1TVdPcFctZEh2VnRVWlpNZ35-L0FBQUhhZ0F-L1JnUm1sSy1jUDBTVWFIUjBjSE02THk5M2QzY3VZblZ6YVc1bGMzTnZabVpoYzJocGIyNHVZMjl0TDI1bGQzTnNaWFIwWlhKekx6OTFkRzFmYzI5MWNtTmxQVzVsZDNOc1pYUjBaWEpmWkdGcGJIbGthV2RsYzNRbWRYUnRYMjFsWkdsMWJUMWxiV0ZwYkNaMWRHMWZZMkZ0Y0dGcFoyNDlSR0ZwYkhsZlJHbG5aWE4wWHpFMU1EY3lNeVoxZEcxZlkyOXVkR1Z1ZEQxcGJuUnliMWNGYzNCalpYVkNDbVNtbkNxeVpNdE5TMjVTTTJGdWIzVnJMblpzWVdodmRtbGpLM1p2YVdObGN6SXdNak4wWlhOMFFHSjFjMmx1WlhOemIyWm1ZWE5vYVc5dUxtTnZiVmdFQUFBQUpBfn4_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNjAzMjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1Qgpl74449WVO3309Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) for agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice that you wonât find anywhere else. [BoF PROFESSIONAL Join now and enjoy your first 30 days
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