IA’s Weekly Letter: ⚙️ The Fashion System Is Creaking.

The current formulaic, corporatised, anodyne approach to fashion is not working. The industry needs to find its courage to be creative again, writes Imran Amed. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0SLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1ib2ZfbG9nb1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ ADVERTISEMENT ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QLAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9yZXBvcnRzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci9ib2YtaW5zaWdodHMtYnJhbmQtbWFnaWMtaW5kZXgtdm9sdW1lLXR3by1mYXNoaW9uLWx1eHVyeS1icmFuZHMtcmFua2luZy1kaW9yLWxvdWlzLXZ1aXR0b24tdmVyc2FjZS1xdWlsdC1haS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9YWRfc2xvdFcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TODAY: SATURDAY, JUNE 15, 2024 LONDON — Lately, something has not been feeling quite right in luxury fashion. First Kering, and now LVMH and Chanel, seem to be creeping into crisis management mode. As has been well documented, Sabato De Sarno’s creative directorship at all-important Gucci has not yet ignited industry interest. Meanwhile, customers haven’t had the opportunity to see much new product in store, hobbling Kering’s post-Covid performance. None of the other Kering brands are registering meaningful growth that can make up for this, leaving the group with a very complex multi-faceted turnaround to execute. Over at LVMH, things are getting more challenging too. According to market sources, sales at Dior are flagging, which perhaps explains why the house’s Pre-Fall show in Hong Kong was “indefinitely postponed” just a few weeks before it was due to take place. Meanwhile, Fendi and Givenchy seem to be in stasis mode, while reports that Hedi Slimane is about to leave Celine following [“thorny contract negotiations”](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4T5AWh0dHBzOi8vY2xpY2tzLmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9mL2EvdjJDbGhoS1BiZ1lCOVAxM0xkM0xQUX5-L0FBQUhhZ0F-L1JnUm9UeXFjUDBTM2FIUjBjSE02THk5M2QzY3VZblZ6YVc1bGMzTnZabVpoYzJocGIyNHVZMjl0TDI5d2FXNXBiMjV6TDJ4MWVIVnllUzkwYUdVdGIzUm9aWEl0YzJsa1pTMXZaaTFvWldScExYTnNhVzFoYm1VdlAzVjBiVjl6YjNWeVkyVTlibVYzYzJ4bGRIUmxjbDlrWVdsc2VXUnBaMlZ6ZENaMWRHMWZiV1ZrYVhWdFBXVnRZV2xzSm5WMGJWOWpZVzF3WVdsbmJqMUVZV2xzZVY5RWFXZGxjM1JmTVRVd05qSTBKblYwYlY5amIyNTBaVzUwUFdsdWRISnZWd1Z6Y0dObGRVSUtabEdjcFd4bVJEZHcxMUliYVcxeVlXNUFZblZ6YVc1bGMzTnZabVpoYzJocGIyNHVZMjl0V0FRQUFBQWs_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~)with his bosses at LVMH, further complicates matters. And then just last week, [Chanel suddenly lost its creative director](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QFAmh0dHBzOi8vY2xpY2tzLmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9mL2Evd0h1WGZrZm9xZjAyMnhhakgtNjNGUX5-L0FBQUhhZ0F-L1JnUm9UeXFjUDBTX2FIUjBjSE02THk5M2QzY3VZblZ6YVc1bGMzTnZabVpoYzJocGIyNHVZMjl0TDJGeWRHbGpiR1Z6TDJ4MWVIVnllUzlqYUdGdVpXd3RaR1Z6YVdkdVpYSXRkbWx5WjJsdWFXVXRkbWxoY21RdGRHOHRaWGhwZEM4X2RYUnRYM052ZFhKalpUMXVaWGR6YkdWMGRHVnlYMlJoYVd4NVpHbG5aWE4wSm5WMGJWOXRaV1JwZFcwOVpXMWhhV3dtZFhSdFgyTmhiWEJoYVdkdVBVUmhhV3g1WDBScFoyVnpkRjh4TlRBMk1qUW1kWFJ0WDJOdmJuUmxiblE5YVc1MGNtOVhCWE53WTJWMVFncG1VWnlsYkdaRU4zRFhVaHRwYlhKaGJrQmlkWE5wYm1WemMyOW1abUZ6YUdsdmJpNWpiMjFZQkFBQUFDUX4_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~), Virginie Viard, and in a not very Chanel way, especially for someone who had dedicated 30 years to the house. The fact that Viard’s exit happened so quickly with no succession plan in place makes it clear that neither side had planned for this to happen now. Chanel’s creative conundrum comes amid market reports that sales are down in almost every market this year. But it’s not just these designers and these houses that are troubled. Burberry’s mooted elevation strategy is not yet delivering results and Lanvin, which has been without a creative director for more than a year, seems to be languishing even if CEO Siddartha Shukla is working hard to keep the brand relevant. After John Galliano wiped his Instagram account, the rumour mill started whirring that he would be leaving his creative directorship at Maison Margiela. Meanwhile, a number of talented designers remain without big jobs. Pierpoalo Piccioli suddenly exited Valentino in March and Sarah Burton announced last autumn that she was leaving Alexander McQueen. Both designers had worked with their respective houses for more than 20 years and haven’t popped up anywhere else, in spite of their talent. Neither have Riccardo Tisci or Claire Waight Keller who left Burberry and Givenchy several years ago. What explains this pattern of events? There are a variety of forces at work, but I think it has something to do with a gradual breakdown of the social contract between creatives and their corporate bosses, who are not championing creativity in the way they once did. [READ MORE →](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TIaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL29waW5pb25zL2x1eHVyeS90aGUtZmFzaGlvbi1zeXN0ZW0taXMtY3JlYWtpbmctd2lsbC1pdC1jb2xsYXBzZS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) Plus, here are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty TOP STORIES [SUSTAINABILITY](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9zdXN0YWluYWJpbGl0eT91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1BRlJFNVdCVUxWQ0VSS0E2RFlFTVM3RzNQQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMV90b3BpY1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [Italian Sweatshop Probe Is a Wake Up Call for Luxury Brands](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T8aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2JyaWVmaW5ncy9zdXN0YWluYWJpbGl0eS9pdGFsaWFuLXN3ZWF0c2hvcC1wcm9iZS1sdXh1cnktbHZtaC1hcm1hbmkvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUFGUkU1V0JVTFZDRVJLQTZEWUVNUzdHM1BBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8xX3RpdGxlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) By Sarah Kent ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T8aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2JyaWVmaW5ncy9zdXN0YWluYWJpbGl0eS9pdGFsaWFuLXN3ZWF0c2hvcC1wcm9iZS1sdXh1cnktbHZtaC1hcm1hbmkvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUFGUkU1V0JVTFZDRVJLQTZEWUVNUzdHM1BBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8xX2ltYWdlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk [An investigation into labour exploitation in fashion’s Italian supply chains has already entangled Armani and LVMH, accusing the companies of failing to adequately oversee their suppliers. Incoming EU regulation means such lapses in oversight could soon come with penalties of up to five percent of global revenue.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T6aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2JyaWVmaW5ncy9zdXN0YWluYWJpbGl0eS9pdGFsaWFuLXN3ZWF0c2hvcC1wcm9iZS1sdXh1cnktbHZtaC1hcm1hbmkvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUFGUkU1V0JVTFZDRVJLQTZEWUVNUzdHM1BBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8xX2Rla1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T6aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2JyaWVmaW5ncy9zdXN0YWluYWJpbGl0eS9pdGFsaWFuLXN3ZWF0c2hvcC1wcm9iZS1sdXh1cnktbHZtaC1hcm1hbmkvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUFGUkU1V0JVTFZDRVJLQTZEWUVNUzdHM1BBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8xX2N0YVcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [MARKETING](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9tYXJrZXRpbmctcHI_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09N1lZQ1pNUzdWRkhHWlBBTjRFUDRTNjMyRVEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzJfdG9waWNXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [What Is Buzz Worth?](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci93aGF0LWlzLW1hcmtldGluZy1idXp6LXdvcnRoLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT03WVlDWk1TN1ZGSEdaUEFONEVQNFM2MzJFUSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl90aXRsZVcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) By Joan Kennedy ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci93aGF0LWlzLW1hcmtldGluZy1idXp6LXdvcnRoLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT03WVlDWk1TN1ZGSEdaUEFONEVQNFM2MzJFUSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl9pbWFnZVcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ [Many fashion brands have prioritised manufacturing viral moments meant to create chatter online. But that alone can’t be the foundation of a brand’s marketing strategy.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TpaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci93aGF0LWlzLW1hcmtldGluZy1idXp6LXdvcnRoLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT03WVlDWk1TN1ZGSEdaUEFONEVQNFM2MzJFUSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl9kZWtXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TpaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci93aGF0LWlzLW1hcmtldGluZy1idXp6LXdvcnRoLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT03WVlDWk1TN1ZGSEdaUEFONEVQNFM2MzJFUSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl9jdGFXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [MARKETING](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9tYXJrZXRpbmctcHI_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RkEyVEVIUUNJTkZLRkQzQlgzT1g0NEg2NlkmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzNfdG9waWNXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [The Return of the Flip-Flop](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TqaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci90aGUtcmV0dXJuLW9mLXRoZS1mbGlwLWZsb3AvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUZBMlRFSFFDSU5GS0ZEM0JYM09YNDRINjZZJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8zX3RpdGxlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) By Diana Pearl ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TqaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci90aGUtcmV0dXJuLW9mLXRoZS1mbGlwLWZsb3AvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUZBMlRFSFFDSU5GS0ZEM0JYM09YNDRINjZZJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8zX2ltYWdlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk [The 2000s staple is back, this time with a luxury twist. Its resurgence is evidence that the old school playbook for starting trends can still work in 2024.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0ToaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci90aGUtcmV0dXJuLW9mLXRoZS1mbGlwLWZsb3AvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUZBMlRFSFFDSU5GS0ZEM0JYM09YNDRINjZZJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8zX2Rla1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0ToaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci90aGUtcmV0dXJuLW9mLXRoZS1mbGlwLWZsb3AvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUZBMlRFSFFDSU5GS0ZEM0JYM09YNDRINjZZJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8zX2N0YVcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [SUSTAINABILITY](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9zdXN0YWluYWJpbGl0eT91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1OSVFWMlFIUkVaQ0dERVdXVE5KMktaRlJTQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfNF90b3BpY1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [What’s Behind the Slow Fashion Recession](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T4aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3N1c3RhaW5hYmlsaXR5L3doYXRzLWJlaGluZC10aGUtc2xvdy1mYXNoaW9uLXJlY2Vzc2lvbi8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09TklRVjJRSFJFWkNHREVXV1ROSjJLWkZSU0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzRfdGl0bGVXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) By Isabel Slone [The closure of Mara Hoffman and other brands that built ethical consumption into their business models is raising questions about whether there’s room in the market for brands that put sustainability first.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T2aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3N1c3RhaW5hYmlsaXR5L3doYXRzLWJlaGluZC10aGUtc2xvdy1mYXNoaW9uLXJlY2Vzc2lvbi8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09TklRVjJRSFJFWkNHREVXV1ROSjJLWkZSU0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzRfZGVrVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0T2aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3N1c3RhaW5hYmlsaXR5L3doYXRzLWJlaGluZC10aGUtc2xvdy1mYXNoaW9uLXJlY2Vzc2lvbi8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09TklRVjJRSFJFWkNHREVXV1ROSjJLWkZSU0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzRfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [GLOBAL MARKETS](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1WWEE3SVhNV1NSRkNYUFpKRUhNWDQ0R0VFQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfNV90b3BpY1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [What High-Street Brands Get Wrong — and Right— in India](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QFAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cy93aGF0LWhpZ2gtc3RyZWV0LWJyYW5kcy1nZXQtd3JvbmctYW5kLXJpZ2h0LWluLWluZGlhLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1WWEE3SVhNV1NSRkNYUFpKRUhNWDQ0R0VFQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfNV90aXRsZVcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) By Praachi Raniwala [H&M and Zara continue to expand in the country but local mass market competitors offer consumers a more complete wardrobe including popular ‘Indo-Western’ style outfits.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QDAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cy93aGF0LWhpZ2gtc3RyZWV0LWJyYW5kcy1nZXQtd3JvbmctYW5kLXJpZ2h0LWluLWluZGlhLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1WWEE3SVhNV1NSRkNYUFpKRUhNWDQ0R0VFQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfNV9kZWtXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QDAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cy93aGF0LWhpZ2gtc3RyZWV0LWJyYW5kcy1nZXQtd3JvbmctYW5kLXJpZ2h0LWluLWluZGlhLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzE1MDYyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1WWEE3SVhNV1NSRkNYUFpKRUhNWDQ0R0VFQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfNV9jdGFXBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [BoF PROFESSIONAL Join now and enjoy your first 30 days for just $/£/€1](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0SraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3N1YnNjcmlwdGlvbnMvcGFja2FnZXMvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWJvZnByb19tb2R1bGVfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [START TRIAL](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0SraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3N1YnNjcmlwdGlvbnMvcGFja2FnZXMvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWJvZnByb19tb2R1bGVfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) MULTIMEDIA [PODCAST](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP0TBaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3BvZGNhc3RzP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMTUwNjI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUpUS0dWQklWT1ZIUEhQNkdOU1JVWFlORlZNJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PW11bHRpbWVkaWFfMV90b3BpY1cFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [The BoF Podcast | Law Roach on Keeping Busy After ‘Retirement’](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QEAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9wb2RjYXN0cy9sdXh1cnkvdGhlLWJvZi1wb2RjYXN0LWxhdy1yb2FjaC1vbi1rZWVwaW5nLWJ1c3ktYWZ0ZXItcmV0aXJlbWVudC8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09SlRLR1ZCSVZPVkhQSFA2R05TUlVYWU5GVk0mdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9bXVsdGltZWRpYV8xX3RpdGxlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) By Imran Amed ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QEAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9wb2RjYXN0cy9sdXh1cnkvdGhlLWJvZi1wb2RjYXN0LWxhdy1yb2FjaC1vbi1rZWVwaW5nLWJ1c3ktYWZ0ZXItcmV0aXJlbWVudC8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09SlRLR1ZCSVZPVkhQSFA2R05TUlVYWU5GVk0mdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9bXVsdGltZWRpYV8xX2ltYWdlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk SPECIAL FEATURE ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QTAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9yZXBvcnRzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci9ib2YtaW5zaWdodHMtYnJhbmQtbWFnaWMtaW5kZXgtdm9sdW1lLXR3by1mYXNoaW9uLWx1eHVyeS1icmFuZHMtcmFua2luZy1kaW9yLWxvdWlzLXZ1aXR0b24tdmVyc2FjZS1xdWlsdC1haS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9c3BvbnNvcmVkX2ltYWdlVwVzcGNldUIKZlGuIm1mVvFpdVIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk The BoF Brand Magic Index: Volume 2 Last month, BoF Insights launched the second volume of [The BoF Brand Magic Index](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QJAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9yZXBvcnRzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci9ib2YtaW5zaWdodHMtYnJhbmQtbWFnaWMtaW5kZXgtdm9sdW1lLXR3by1mYXNoaW9uLWx1eHVyeS1icmFuZHMtcmFua2luZy1kaW9yLWxvdWlzLXZ1aXR0b24tdmVyc2FjZS1xdWlsdC1haS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9cHJvbW9XBXNwY2V1QgpmUa4ibWZW8Wl1Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~), powered by Quilt.AI, which uses cutting-edge AI technology to reveal the fashion industry’s most powerful brands. The Index's proprietary AI models assess how effective brands are in finding alignment, creating engagement and driving intent with customers, making it the industry’s most rigorous and comprehensive brand measurement tool. Find out which brands topped our ranking by downloading a sample of the report now or sign up for an Executive membership to access the full version of the report, which includes deep dives for all 50 brands. [READ NOW](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoT6euP4QRAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9yZXBvcnRzL21hcmtldGluZy1wci9ib2YtaW5zaWdodHMtYnJhbmQtbWFnaWMtaW5kZXgtdm9sdW1lLXR3by1mYXNoaW9uLWx1eHVyeS1icmFuZHMtcmFua2luZy1kaW9yLWxvdWlzLXZ1aXR0b24tdmVyc2FjZS1xdWlsdC1haS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8xNTA2MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9c3BvbnNvcmVkX2N0YVcFc3BjZXVCCmZRriJtZlbxaXVSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) The Business of Fashion AGENDA-SETTING INTELLIGENCE, ANALYSIS AND ADVICE FOR THE GLOBAL FASHION COMMUNITY. 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