How to spot truly rich people in Dubai

Hey it's Lisa. Here's a secret to separate the rich from the ridiculous rich in Dubai, plus more insights I've learned as your Pursuits rep in the Middle East. [View in browser]( [Bloomberg]( Hey it’s [Lisa Fleisher](. For the past year and a half, I’ve had the pleasure of being your Middle East luxury correspondent, based in Dubai. I’ve given you the lay of the land in this city: [where to eat](, what to see, where to stay. I was your stand-in at [Beyoncé’s internet-breaking performance]( in front of an invitation-only crowd to open a $1.2 billion hotel—and then relayed [what it was like to stay]( at said ultraluxury hotel, [Atlantis the Royal](. My favorite view of Atlantis the Royal: from the water, at night. Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg We covered some of Dubai's excesses, such as a [plot of sand](—on an artificial island sometimes referred to as [Billionaires Island](—that sold for $34 million, earning the guy who flipped it a 242% profit. A mansion [slathered in gold leaf]( and marble which listed for $204 million. Why it can be difficult even for [royals to buy a Rolex]( here. And [a party jet]( owned by a party hotel [for rent]( at $14,000 per hour. The entrance of that mansion mentioned above, with grand staircases and a dome with handmade glass. Source: Luxhabitat Sotheby's Alas, I’m about to disappear for a while on [maternity leave](. (I’m technically due today.) So it’s got me in a bit of a reflective mood. Beyond the abundance of the obvious goods with high price tags, many ordinary experiences in Dubai can seem upscale. First of all, so many places are new, so it’s rare that something looks out of date or run down. Second, there’s an army of janitorial and other types of workers here—paid low wages, to be sure—that keep everything dust free and polished, or who power services that make life convenient. My friends and I brainstormed for a few minutes, and here’s what we came up with: - Car refueling on demand. In the UAE, you don’t have to make a pit stop to fill ’er up: [a company called Cafu]( drives the gas station to you. You don’t even have to be there; just make sure the fuel door is unlocked. It costs the same as at the station, in part because gas prices are regulated by the government. Cafu also provides car washes, oil changes and some roadside assistance. My friends also mentioned that when we do go to gas stations, workers fill our cars for us. But [I’m from New Jersey](, so I’m not impressed. - No more dragging your luggage to the airport, out of the taxi and to the check-in counter. In Dubai, [a company called Dubz](—used by airlines including Emirates—picks your luggage up at home, checks it in and even gives you your boarding pass, charging 279 dirhams ($76) for up to four bags. - Private and clean public bathrooms. Doors that fully close, floor to ceiling (or at least, well above my head), and without gaps at the sides. Why are [public restrooms in the US]( so atrocious—if you can find them at all? - Everything apps. You hear [Elon Musk banging on]( about this, and they exist in some other parts of the world, namely Asia. Here, I have several apps through which I can get nearly anything delivered—from companies like [JustLife](, [Uber-owned]( [Careem]( and [Deliveroo](. You can also pay bills or transfer money. Some of what I’ve ordered: swim goggles; meals from [Michelin Bib Gourmand]( restaurants; Covid vaccinations; groceries; dry cleaning; prescription drugs; cleaning services. I haven’t (yet) taken advantage of the handyman services, mani/pedis, massages or mobile ice baths. - High-quality hotels. Largely because there are so many that are new, I suspect. My family has had great stays at places like the [Al Bandar Rotana]( for less than $100 a night, and I’ve heard great things about [the Rove brand](. Also amazing: Terra Solis, run by music festival organizer Tomorrowland. Source: Terra Solis One luxury that Dubai didn’t capitalize on, however, is the luxury of foresight. When building its city from scratch a few decades ago, it focused on cars—not mass transit. Now, all Dubai residents do is complain about the traffic, and the city is scrambling to catch up, widening roads and [making plans to expand]( its limited (but spotless) metro network. Another thing Dubai doesn’t have is American-style freedom of speech, which means insults can be deemed criminal and political protest is limited. That, along with the newness of everything, the self-selected expat population (generally, you have to have a job or be rich to live here) and the lack of an income tax (for everyone except those of us from the US or the East African nation of Eritrea; we’re taxed worldwide), means you really do feel like you’re living in a bubble. And sometimes you forget just how extravagant everything appears to people outside that bubble. If your food isn’t gold-flaked in Dubai, is it even edible? From left: a fruit tart at [FRNDS Cafe](; a pistachio ice cream drizzled in olive oil at [Roberto’s]( and a golden cappuccino at the [Burj Al Arab](. Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg I’m planning to give birth at [HMS Mirdif hospital](, which opened just over two years ago. When I posted a tour of the maternity ward on Instagram, friends remarked that the recovery room was nicer than any apartment they’ve ever lived in—or were blown away by the closet space. The standard room is covered by my ([mandatory]() health insurance, but I could upgrade to a VIP suite for roughly another $2,000 a night, a [royal suite]( for $4,000 a night or snag [the apartment]( for $6,000 a night. Who knows, you might want a full entourage to be able to visit while you’re on the mend, or you just have the money, so why not. (I’ll stick with basic luxury, thanks.) This is the standard room at HMS Mirdif. Not in the frame is the TV across from the bed and the sofa to the side. Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg The way you can truly spot someone who either has—or at one point had—money to burn is to look at their car. I’m not talking about [the make and model](, though that’s of course one indication. I mean their license plates. Mine has five numbers and a letter, with no real pattern or repetition. As you move (more slowly than ever) through the roads here, if you see a plate with three numbers, two or the ultra-rare one number, you know the owner paid good money for a status symbol. The UAE has made a habit of auctioning off desirable number plates for charity. [Plate P7]( sold last year for $15 million. Connect with Lisa on [Instagram]( Buzziest Dubai Stories of the Year I warned you I was getting reflective. Here are some of my favorite tales out of this area. [UAE’s First Brewery Is Ready to Legally Make and Sell Beer]( The restaurant and pub was made possible by new Abu Dhabi regulations allowing for alcohol fermentation. [Dubai Puts Casino Plans on Backburner as Abu Dhabi Pushes Ahead]( The emirates of Abu Dhabi and Ras Al Khaimah have emerged as frontrunners to introduce casinos before their neighbor. [Russians Lose Taste for Suddenly Pricey Dubai Property]( The steep drop in the Russian currency has accelerated a decline in a market that was naturally running out of steam, brokers say. [Four-Day Workweek Comes to One of Dubai’s Top Restaurants]( LPM Restaurant & Bar is lowering hours for service workers in an attempt to improve quality of life—and attract the best team. [Demand for Truffles in Dubai Is Soaring. Here’s the Man to Call]( Massimo Vidoni had a hard time selling the ingredient when he came to Dubai a decade ago, but it’s now a restaurant staple. So, You Had Some Questions... We put out the call for questions weekly on [our Instagram account](. You ask, we answer. Best times of year to visit Dubai? Avoid May through October, unless you intend to stay indoors and strategize ways to stay cool, because the weather can be unbearable. Any other time is great. And remember when you look at the forecast: It gets humid in Dubai, especially at night, so you’re going to want to pay close attention to the “feels like” temperature. Just a typical day in August. (Top is Celsius, bottom Fahrenheit.) Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg Where is the best beach club in Dubai for beach quality? Personally, I’m not a huge fan of the Dubai beaches. I’m more of a Montauk, natural dunes person. Plus, I can’t stop seeing cigarette butts everywhere after doing two charity beach cleanups with Bloomberg. So I turned to [Sarah Hedley Hymers](, a travel TV presenter and friend. Coincidentally, she had just gone in search of the best overall beach club. (Her pick [is here](.) Tagomago Beach Club on the Palm Jumeirah in Dubai. Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg She says: “[Twiggy]( has a man-made beach formed around a lagoon that overlooks the creek, so it’s very unique. Another extremely Dubai option is [Sal, at Burj Al Arab](, where large-grain sand has been specially imported to prevent it from sticking to guests’ suntan lotion for their added comfort. Almost all the beach clubs on [Palm West Beach]( have glamorous cabanas and hammocks over the sand with [Ain Dubai]( views; [Cove Beach on Bluewaters Island]( has the same looking in the opposite direction over West Beach and the Gulf.” Where should we go with toddlers? What’s family-friendly? Now this is right up my alley. We moved back to Dubai just before my first daughter turned 2. The city is [great to do with kids]( for many reasons, including safety: When she ran off in the mall once, the only thing I really worried about was that she’d fall down an escalator (or accidentally shoplift). Dubai’s outdoor playgrounds don’t hold a candle to those in other places I’ve lived, like New York or London—and I have to assume that’s because they’re unusable for a third of the year (see the first question above). But they’re getting better. [The playgrounds]( at the new neighborhood of Dubai Hills Estate stand out, as does its [splash park](. Even toddlers can explore the giant nets at [OliOli](. Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg [XPark Jr.]( is outdoors, near the beach, with playgrounds and live animals like ducks and turtles, though you may find yourself answering awkward questions if animals get frisky with each other. For more animals and birds, try [the Green Planet](. [The Ripe Market at Academy Park]( on weekends is fab for all ages. There are great indoor play areas. Some, like [Playville](, allow you to drop your kid off and let the wonderful childcare workers look after them while you run errands or take a break (or finish a newsletter). The pinnacle is [OliOli](, a two-level, multi-room play facility that is great for toddlers through age 7. Feel free to [DM me]( for more. Will a millennial be able to afford Dubai? [Millennials are now middle aged!]( We’re 40 (or getting there)! If you want to know whether there’s a way to experience Dubai on a budget, the answer is yes—depending, generally, on your overall financial status. There are lovely free beaches, such as [Kite Beach](, and relatively low-cost hotels to choose from. You can follow local food critics like [my friend Reza]( for hidden gems and low-cost options among the pricey places. Kite Beach on a windy day in January 2023. Photographer: Lisa Fleisher/Bloomberg How many indoor ski slopes are there? I know of two-ish. There’s the most famous one, [Ski Dubai](, with the full experience: A slope and freezing temperatures, even in the summer. Then there’s [Infinite Ski](, which simulates skiing on a short track. How does opening a casino fit in with religion? [It doesn’t really](. But like many things in the UAE, and to some extent other parts of the Gulf, local governments are loosening laws, if sometimes only for non-Muslims. The [first brewery in the UAE]( was just approved, for example. There are speakeasy-style rooms in the back of some grocery stores labeled “for non-Muslims” where you’ll find pork products. If you don’t know why this question’s being asked, let me fill you in: The UAE [appears poised]( to approve casino gambling, with a [regulatory body set up]( and everything. Wynn Resorts is building a $3.9 billion “integrated” (meaning, gambling on site) resort in the emirate of Ras Al Khaimah, and in August the company’s chief executive officer said he [expected to get a gaming license]( “imminently.” Whether casinos will come anytime soon to Dubai is still an open question that we’ve been keeping tabs on. But one thing’s certain: A Dubai casino won’t be branded Caesars Palace. [The emirate cut ties]( with the Vegas company in September, which had opened in Dubai in 2018 with the hopes of someday getting a gaming license. VIP Access If you’re a fan of whiskey, wine, beer and spirits, Bloomberg Pursuits has a club just for you. We’re sharing exclusive spirits news, building a tasting community and offering access to special cocktail events and bottle releases. 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