Travel the way we used to

There are still amazing places with no crowds and no selfie sticks. [View in browser]( [Bloomberg]( Gamarjoba, dear readers! It’s [Lily Girma]( here, your travel correspondent delivering industry news and insights on how to be a better traveler. By the way, that’s how you say hello in Georgia—the country, not the state—and it literally translates as “may you be victorious!” Last month, I spent seven seemingly victorious days in the eastern European country known as the cradle of wine. My visit was timed to coincide with the United Nations’ World Tourism Day, which falls on September 27 every year. I’ll admit that I felt unsure, a tad nervous even, of the kind of atmosphere I’d find on that side of Europe, given Georgia’s proximity to Russia and the conflict with Ukraine. A monument to King Vakhtang Gorgasali, who ruled in Georgia during the 5th and 6th centuries, overlooking Tbilisi. Photographer: Andrey Rudakov/Bloomberg But Sakartvelo—as Georgians call their homeland—actually turned out to be a welcome respite from the chaos of the world. Tbilisi was delightfully easy to explore on foot, from Rustaveli Avenue, a grand tree-lined boulevard flanked by a mix of neoclassical, Moorish revival and contemporary architecture, home to museums and fashion retailers—with brand names etched in Georgian alphabet letters—to Old Tbilisi’s cobblestoned streets, past sidewalk cafés adjacent to diverse spiritual centers. How often do you encounter a city with a Georgian Orthodox cathedral, a synagogue and a mosque just steps from one another? Or tourist groups with no selfie-sticks in hand? And a central historic neighborhood without a slew of gimmicky souvenir shops? Customers at an outdoor restaurant terrace in Tbilisi on May 12, 2024. Photographer: Andrey Rudakov/Bloomberg At the entrance of the [Rike Cable Car]( too, lines moved seamlessly and within minutes we were soaring over Tbilisi, taking in panoramic views of the city’s modern Bridge of Peace, made of steel and glass, extending over the Kura River and contrasting against red terracotta tiled rooftops. The most commotion I experienced during my stay was at the Shumi winery, in Georgia’s main wine-producing region of Kakheti, or 1.5-hour drive east of Tbilisi in the foothills of the Caucasus mountains. In a gardenside pavilion, a group of Chinese tourists were cheering while stomping on grapes inside a wooden, boat-shaped container. Georgian folkloric music and their enthusiastic claps drowned out the squish of their plastic boots. Steps away, three of us were learning to make Georgian dumplings, our fingers carefully twisting small mounds of dough filled with seasoned ground beef, giggling at our lack of culinary prowess. We were all fully immersed in the moment—with our Georgian hosts and with each other, as tourists. Making dumplings at Shumi Winery in Kakheti, Georgia. Photographer: Lebawit Girma/Bloomberg Part of this lack of crowds and commercialization in Georgia, of course, is that the country is still relatively new to tourism, compared to say, Spain or France. And it’s still aiming to recoup its tourist arrival numbers following the pandemic and  neighboring conflict. In 2023, Georgia [received]( 6.1 million international travelers—just 75% of its 2019 overseas visitation levels.  The country has also undergone periods of social transformation since 2022, in part due to the more than 100,000 Russians who moved to Georgia as a result of the war. My tour guide, Kartlos Chabashvili, founder of [InterGeorgia Travel]( said that maintaining peace remains primordial for most Georgians, who harbor memories of Russian occupation. (Georgia obtained independence in 1991, but two regions, Abkhazia and South Ossetia, remain occupied by Russia). There’s hope in the European Union’s decision, a year ago, to [grant Georgia candidate status]( for EU membership. Ultimately, I decided that Georgia’s allure wasn’t just about a lack of crowds, but that it’s linked to a deeply entrenched belief in hospitality. Throughout my trip, locals explained that Georgians don’t like calling visitors “tourists”—they are stumari or guests, and guests are considered a gift from God. Perhaps that’s it— respect begets respect? Either way, this visit left me with an inexplicable sense of nostalgia for the way travel used to be, as more of a simple adventure into a new culture where I’m welcomed, irrespective of my race and religion, and where cultural connection is made easy. This desire for simplicity and spontaneity on trips is apparently a growing trend, according to [a recent report by Hilton Hotels, which calls it “soft travel.”]( (TikTok has also been hyped up on the term for months.) We’re seeking destinations “that offer a respite from the relentless pace of modern life.” It seems obvious enough, but this time the desire is greater than ever for offbeat locations or undertouristed countries which, like Georgia, would be delighted to receive guests. Romania is another uncrowded destination we love so much, we recommended it in our [Where to Go in 2024]( list. [Click here for our complete guide to Romania]( by a local expert. Photographer: Adrian Catalin Lazar/Getty Images For me, simplicity means going with the flow, so I embraced the role of a good stumari: I ended my four-year alcohol hiatus to sample Georgian wine—made through a slow, natural fermentation process inside qvevri, oversized earthenware pots that are “planted” underground, rather than in barrels. This 8,000-year old winemaking tradition has been passed down through generations, and is designated as a Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage. I confess that I had copious amounts of amber, saperavi (dry red) and Tsinandali (crisp, floral white) wines, which went down so easily with meals. But I steered clear of chacha, Georgians’ beloved potent (40%-60%) distilled spirit made from leftover grape seeds and skin. By the end of the week, I’d lost count of how many times we raised our glasses, toasting to hospitality, family and peace in our respective homelands: Gaumarjos! Cheers! More Ideas for “Soft” or Offbeat Travel Aside from Georgia, here’s additional inspiration for simpler, richer travel away from the stressors of life. - [The Four Most Underrated Vacation Spots in Mexico]( Pristine colonial towns, crystal-clear lake waters, hand-painted pottery: You may not have heard of these Mexican destinations, but one of them just might be your next dream trip. - [Aboriginal-Led Experiences in Australia]( Communities are doubling down on chances to tell their stories—namely, through tourism. But building up supply and demand requires lots of patience. - [Five Ski Destinations That Are Cheaper than Classics—and Just as Posh]( Ski this, not that. - [By Ferry or Floatplane, 4 Enchanting Coastal Getaways from Vancouver]( The largest city in British Columbia makes a perfect gateway to explore the rich marine wildlife and beauty of the region. The Habitas hotel on Lake Bacalar in Mexico, from [our list of underrated destinations](. Photographer: Tanveer Badal Prefer the Buzz of Cities and Resort Hotspots? The energy of cities can inspire as well. From Washington DC to Sao Paulo, Brazil, we’ve got some ideas for you. [DC Hotels Are Nearly Sold Out for Inauguration, Even Before Election Day]( [Sao Paulo Travel Guide: Where to Stay, What to Do, See and Eat]( [Palm Beach Is Having a Luxury Hotel Renaissance]( [Ever Wanted to Ski in Japan? This Is Your Year]( What I Can’t Stop Thinking About Asheville’s River Arts District. [You can read more here about what to see and do]( in town. Photographer: W. G. Murray / Alamy Stock Photo I was in Asheville [this past May]( if you recall, exploring this booming town’s new African American Heritage Trail, touring riverside art galleries, studios and cafes in beautiful springlike weather. And I had ended my trip with a hike in The Biltmore’s expansive gardens. It’s been heart wrenching to hear and see images of the devastation that Hurricane Helene brought to western Carolina in late September, just five months later. The storm killed at least 140 people across six states. While downtown Asheville is back to operating as usual, the severe floods impacted at least 80% of the River Arts District (RAD)—a vibrant stretch of art galleries, shops, restaurants and cafes set near or across the river.  It’s difficult to grasp that most of the folks I met for my story were displaced, leaving their homes for an undetermined period, and/or saw their livelihoods paused. Artist Tarah Singh said that her daughter lost her RAD studio inventory. Singh is also receiving donations online through her [Imprint Artists Collective]( to help recover this loss of income. I think of the dozens of other artists’ creations I’d admired, from paintings to carvings and the buildings that housed them, that no longer exist. As a creative, I can empathize. The River Arts District Association is determined to get the more than 350 artists in its community going again, including partnering with large art suppliers for art supply donations that will go directly to the artists. The Biltmore House is reflected in a pond on the estate in Asheville. Photographer: Chuck Burton/AP RAD was also one of Asheville’s main draws as a tourist destination. Another is The Biltmore, which is now set to reopen in parts on November 2—Biltmore House and Antler Village and Winery will be ready for crowds and fully decorated for the Christmas season, but the outdoor adventure center and some trails will remain closed; consult [this map]( if you’re heading there. As a travel journalist, I’m all too painfully aware of how climate change events can transform the places and communities I have the privilege to write about. The best I can do in the aftermath is share ways to help those who showed me such generous hospitality. For now, here’s how you can support the Asheville community, should you feel so inclined: - [Always Asheville Fund]( Explore Asheville, which is a registered nonprofit, created this emergency grant fund to ensure its hard hit community of small independent travel and hospitality businesses in Asheville and across Buncombe County can rebuild and continue to thrive. It has itself committed $300,000 and is continuing to raise funds.  - [Love Asheville From Afar]( Shop for locally-made holiday gifts from businesses in Asheville and Buncombe County. Or you can choose to make direct donations towards their own fundraising campaigns that will go towards keeping their staff paid during closures. Noir Collective AVL, mentioned in my story, is listed here.  - [The River Arts District]( You have the option to directly support artists whose studios and galleries were set in this neighborhood. Shop for art or donate, and stay tuned for news of progress. You had some questions... We call for queries weekly on [our Instagram account]( and [via e-mail](mailto:askpursuits@bloomberg.net?subject=I%20have%20a%20question). Here’s what you were dying to know about this time around. Do you have a place you go back to again and again? The Dominican Republic and Belize are two of my favorite destinations in the world, where I have many personal ties. But as a fan of slow travel, I’ve come to realize that I’d like to go back and see more of the places I only briefly visited these past two years. There’s Georgia, for starters, but this time I would plan a stay in the high mountain [Tusheti region]( and on my way out, I would indulge in [Tsinandali Estate]( spa, then dine once more at [Barbarestan]( in Tbilisi—listed among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The UNESCO world heritage site Victoria Falls. Photographer: Zinyange Auntony/Getty Images I would also spend more time getting to know Zambia; it was a dream come true to see Victoria Falls, a walking distance from my hotel room at [Avani Resort]( while staying in Livingstone, and cruising down the Zambezi river at sunset. But I had difficulty finding cultural workshops in that corner of Zambia. And lastly, this is going to sound odd, but Venice would certainly top my list of return visits. I would go during the off season, in the fall or winter. While there earlier this year, I met with environmental activist Jane Da Mosto, whose family has lived in Venice for generations. I’d met her online several years ago through my reporting and became familiar with her nonprofit, [We Are Here Venice]( which is working to preserve the lagoon and its marshlands against the impacts of big cruise and climate change. Jane took me on a walk all around La Serenissima for a day, and I had lunch with her family at her home. That day, I sensed there’s a whole other Venice [beyond the overtourism]( headlines. The Grand Canal in Venice. You still have until Nov. 24 to see the art displayed at the Biennale. [Read our guide here](. Photographer: Zhanna Rossignol/iStockphoto What’s behind the solo female travel surge we’re seeing? We’ve been keeping our eye on this to pinpoint what exactly is driving the spike in demand for solo female travel—a trend that has been around for several decades but is seeing accelerated growth, mostly from women over 50. At least 71% of Virtuoso Travel’s solo travel customers are women, according to its [2025 report]( with nearly half of them divorced, separated or widowed. Intrepid Travel said its women expeditions to places like India, Morocco and Nepal, are up 23% this year compared to 2023—it’s the second fastest growing segment making up the company’s global sales, with a growing number of senior travelers. Even African safari trips are seeing an increase in solo female travelers. Wilderness, for example, is [waiving]( traditional supplementary singles costs for certain trips booked in 2024 and 2025, and offering discounts during the low season. [Safaris generally are changing for the better]( including encouraging solo women travelers. Source: Zebra Plains Collection This boom, which is pronounced particularly in the category of group adventure travel, is likely a result of a combination of factors. There’s the [silver tsunami]( in the US, which is coinciding with a larger share of 65-year-olds getting divorced (the US divorce rate has more than tripled for this segment since 1990). There may be a wave of new empty nesters. Senior women are also living longer and they are wealthier than their predecessors. And the pandemic could have something to do with this quest to see the world with like-minded women. Let’s face it, it’s also become much more socially accepted for married women to go on trips without their husbands. Lastly, there’s the sense of safety that group travel brings, plus the potential savings from not having to pay single supplements or move around solo. Ultimately, there are more choices now than ever for women interested in traveling on their own. Here are a few new itineraries and perks we’ve come across: Butterfield & Robinson’s [first-ever women’s only trips]( offers curated experiences led by women, meeting winemakers in Tuscany or visiting Vietnam with a woman who fought in the Vietnam War. [Wildland Trekking]( part of Intrepid Travel and focused on hiking tours in America’s iconic national parks, is doubling its number of female [Women’s Exclusive Hiking Adventures]( in 2025. And [Uniworld Boutique River Cruises]( is offering its first-ever women’s cruise through France, with activities ranging from artisan-led workshops to scenic bike rides, while Natural Habitat Adventures will host a series of “Women in the wild” trips next year to places like Greenland, Alaska and Costa Rica. Is the election affecting travel? When it comes to overall election cycles, they typically tend to dampen the desire to travel as would-be tourists wait to see the outcome before they make financial decisions. But this year, people are booking and escaping. Flight searches for the week of November 3, for instance, were on par with those for Labor Day weekend, [according to Kayak data]( shared mid-October. Of those, 60% were for international flights.  On the camping side too, people are tending to seek out nature spots to escape the stress of the elections. In a survey from Kampgrounds of America, 20% of surveyed participants said they’ve gone [camping]( more often as a result of the election cycle or replaced other types of trips with some form of camping. Nearly 40% of those also said it was because it felt like a safer mode of travel, while 30% said it was due to election media fatigue, and nearly a quarter cited stress caused by the election. The intent to travel amid the election season could be part of the ongoing demand for leisure travel, regardless of external forces—a lesson we seem to be hanging on to since the pandemic. One thing is for sure: Inauguration day [hotel bookings in Washington DC]( are soaring. That might change, of course, once the election outcome is clear.  New for subscribers: Free article gifting. Bloomberg.com subscribers can now gift up to five free articles a month to anyone you want. Just look for the "Gift this article" button on stories. (Not a subscriber? 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