Extreme adventure

Our ski special makes the case for heli-skiing [View in browser]( [Bloomberg]( It’s [Jen Murphy]( Bloomberg Pursuits’ sporty field reporter covering all things adventure. (Hello from Madagascar!) Last week, I was in Boulder, Colorado, for the world premiere of Warren Miller’s latest film, [75](. Watching scenes of athletes like snowboarder Jeremy Jones and free-skier Lexi DuPont dancing with gravity on snowy peaks around the globe, from Finland to Japan, got me stoked for winter. Let me be clear, at the age of 44, I have no ambitions of a cameo in the next Miller film. But I do like to challenge myself on my snowboard. And I’ll let you in on a little secret: There’s more to backcountry terrain than the cliff faces and couloirs spotlighted in the media. You owe it to yourself to try heli-skiing at least once. Being immersed in the wilderness, surrounded by snowy peaks and fluffy snow—not a chair lift in sight—is fully worth the investment. And now’s the time to book. No, this is not me. [It’s Max Hitzig in](. Photographer: Moritz Ablinger A few seasons ago, I received [a dream assignment]( to go heli-skiing in Alaska’s Chugach Mountains with Valdez Heli Ski Guides, a storied operation located in what many consider the birthplace of the Alaskan free-skiing scene. I’ll admit, I was more than intimidated. To prepare, I signed up for a four-day [Steep and Deep Camp]( at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Wyoming to hone my skills on technical terrain. I also hired a personal trainer to ensure my core and legs would be strong enough to withstand up to 30,000 vertical feet in a day. (For you non-skiers out there, that’s like zipping down to sea level from the peak of Mount Everest.) Another great assignment: I got the exclusive scoop on Shaun White’s plans to give snowboarding the Formula One treatment. Photographer: Michael Dawson I arrived to discover that while there are many gravity-defying faces in the Chugach, there are also plenty of gentle glacier runs and playful powder bowls. You don’t jump out of the chopper, despite what you’ve seen in James Bond movies, or in Warren Miller’s films, for that matter. The pilot carefully lands the helicopter—sometimes on a knife-thin ridge, other times on a roomy mountaintop—so there’s no leap of faith required. Heli-skiing can be as extreme as you want it to be. Don’t have time for a clinic? The [newest skis this season]( can also almost instantly improve technique. Photographer: Syo Van Vliet I also arrived to discover heli-skiing is very male-heavy; I was the only female client out of around 20-some guests. Valdez paired me with two badass female guides, Kirsten Kremer and Brooke Edwards, who told me to ignore the men who were bragging about their big mountain accomplishments and to focus on having fun. (To my surprise, many of those male egos didn’t have strong enough legs to handle three laps in the heli!) This season Valdez is making it even more welcoming, debuting a weeklong [women’s introduction to heli-skiing]( package led by Kremer and Edwards (March 2025; $15,000) that promises to provide a coaching environment designed to build a progression. Meanwhile, as the [ritzy Deer Valley Ski Resort doubles in size]( one hotel aims to democratize access. Photographer: Ryan Tishken More operations are swapping their experts-only adage for experiences that help solid skiers progress. [The Lodge at Blue Sky in Utah]( offers intermediate heli-skiing and -snowboarding (from $25,000 for up to eight people) in the Wasatch Range. The package is geared toward anyone who can confidently navigate a blue or double blue at the resort. In Canada, [Bella Coola Heli Sports]( runs small group vertical programs for strong intermediates new to heli-skiing (5 days from $7,075 per person), and CMH Heli has designed [powder intro trips]( that take guests new to heli to low-stress terrain (7 days from $11,292 per person). Who knows, maybe you could one day compete in Natural Selection, Travis Rice’s growing sports league which is [betting big on thrilling viral videos](. Photographer: Daniel Stewart//Natural Selection Finally, US Ski Hall of Famer Mike Hattrup recently joined the luxury experience brand Eleven to develop skier progression programs that start on long, rolly-polly runs and work up to short steeps at its alpine properties, including their [new heli-lodge in Revelstoke]( British Columbia (from $36,547 for three people for 3 nights, room included), which I intend to visit this March. I’ll let you know how it goes. Until then, here’s some more inspiration from some of my most memorable, off-the-beaten-path adventures over the years I’ve written for Bloomberg and elsewhere. Eleven also runs [epic spring heli-skiing adventures in Arctic Iceland](. Source: Eleven Experience [Skiing’s Final Frontier Is in a Vast Sound in Alaska, Accessible Only by Boat]( One of my all-time favorite snowboard adventures wasn’t in a helicopter—it was on a boat exploring the virgin slopes around Prince William Sound. [The Latest Way to Ski in Powder? Snowcat Skiing]( If you haven’t ridden in a snowcat, you’re missing out. You can blast music and sip hot cocoa as the cat drives you to untracked powder. [How Two Skis Chalets Are Redefining Luxury Travel in Alaska]( Snowboarding beneath the peak of Denali will forever top my list of epic winter adventures. [At Its Soul, Aspen Is Still a Throwback Mountain Town … If You Know Where to Look]( I always tell people, when you look past the glitz, you’ll discover Aspen offers some wild winter escapades, from cat skiing to uphill full-moon dinners. [At This New Arctic Adventure Base, You Can Ski Under the Midnight Sun]( The wine cellar and sensational food at this remote ski lodge are worth the trip alone. Not your typical slope-side amenity: pod of porpoises pass the [backcountry Sea and Sky boat trip in Alaska](. Photographer: Nick D'Alessio Prefer to stick to the resorts? I love the off-grid feeling of being deep in the backcountry. But I also love a perfectly groomed slope and a great après ski bar. When I ski in-bounds, these are my top resort choices. [Five Ski Destinations That Are Cheaper than Classics—and Just as Posh]( One of the easiest ways to escape the crowds (and save a few dollars) is to explore lesser-known resorts. [Montana’s Big Sky Ski Resort Finally Gets Its Moment in the Sun]( One & Only Moonlight Basin won’t be ready for ski season, but its restaurant and bar will be open for dining and après Thursday through Sunday. And there’s runs to challenge anyone from the beginner to the thrill seeker. [The Secret to Your Next Great Ski Vacation Might Be … Club Med]( My editor, Nikki Ekstein, convinced me that Club Med isn’t only for beach vacations. The all-inclusive brand’s ski properties offer some of the best value out there. [These Three Independent Resorts Are Bucking the Big Ski Giants]( In an age of ski conglomerates, there are miraculously still some awesome indie mountains to shred. [Skiers Head North to Snow-Sure Scandinavia as the Alps Heat Up]( Speaking of lesser-known, have you considered Stöten resort? Its location in the Nordics makes it a safe bet for snow. I would be lying if I also didn’t say how excited I was to finally[get a taste of the famous J-pow on a snowboard trip to Hokkaido]( with [Limitless Guiding]( this season. Source: Ski.com What else is on my radar Reading material: [The Darkest White]( a new memoir by Eric Blehm, about the late snowboarding pioneer Craig Kelly. The book beautifully captures the spirit of free-riding and provides a fascinating lens into the evolution of the sport. Source: HarperCollins Crystal ball: A friend just turned me on to [the Powder Buoy]( an Instagram account that shares snow forecasts based on the readings of a NOAA weather buoy off the coast of Kauai. When the buoy rises, or “pops,” on swells of around 5 to 15 feet, a storm usually hits Utah’s Wasatch Range 12 to 14 days later. Last year the buoy was 80% spot-on when it came to snow predictions in Utah, and fairly accurate when it came to forecasting weather in Colorado and Wyoming. Training program: Stop dreaming of the perfect beach bod and start working toward the ultimate ski bod. Ski trips are way more fun when your legs aren’t screaming after your first run. I usually start my ski season training around now and look to [@samsarexperience]( for mountain-specific strength workouts. Alt après scenes: Wellness has always been a post-ski ritual in Europe. Fueled by the buzz around longevity, new spalike longevity spaces are popping up in US ski towns. Skip the shotskis at the bar and instead treat weary muscles to an infrared sauna and cold plunge session at spots like [Base State]( in Aspen or [Monarch]( in Sun Valley. Gear: I’m obsessed with my [Loon’r Hi Flyer & Lo Rider boots](. Most winter boots are heavy and clunky, but these weigh in at a feather-light 3 pounds. They keep my feet warm and dry whether I’m trudging through grimy city sidewalk slush or knee-deep pristine powder. Fashionable and functional, they come in tons of bold, bright colors.  Moody and magnificent: [a Michelin-three-star dinner]( Schauenstein Castle in Switzerland. Source: Schloss Schauentein Meals worth a detour: If you’re skiing in Zermatt or St. Moritz this winter, I highly recommend a detour to Fürstenau. Swiss chef [Andreas Caminada]( has turned this tiny village in Switzerland’s Graubünden canton into a culinary mecca with multiple dining venues including [Casa Caminada]( which showcases regional grandmother recipes, and [Oz]( a 12-seat vegetarian restaurant. Both are delicious, but my multicourse dinner at his Michelin three-starred restaurant, [Schauenstein Castle]( ranks as one of the best meals of my life—the three-tier cheese cart that preceded dessert could have been a meal in itself.  You had some questions! We call for queries weekly on [our Instagram account]( and [via e-mail](mailto:askpursuits@bloomberg.net?subject=I%20have%20a%20question). Here’s what you were dying to know about this time around. If skiing in the states this season, where would you go for the best powder skiing? Well, great news Stephanie (@stepnstoneseven): The La Niña weather pattern is promising massive snowfall in the Americas, so I suggest you expand your sights and hedge your bets, like I am, and head to Canada. The family behind eastern Canada’s wildlife-focused Weber Arctic has launched [Powder Arctic]( a new ski operation in Canada’s northern Selkirk Mountains (five-day ski touring trips from $3,615; heli-ski trips from $12,655), roughly a three-hour drive due west from Calgary. The base: Battle Abbey, the former private home of Hans Moser, the father of modern Canadian alpinism. Have Europe on the mind? Just in case the snow is slight again, here’s [eight of the best spots in Europe that had plentiful powder last year.]( Photographer: nicolamargaret/iStockphoto Just 7 miles outside of the town of Fernie, Canada, the cat-skiing operation [Island Lake Lodge]( offers perfectly spaced glades. And it’s surprisingly easy to reach from the US. Glacier Park International Airport in Kalispell, Montana, is a 2.5-hour drive to the lodge. Most guests are repeats, which means scoring a spot can be tough, but you can sign up to be put on a standby list for day cat-skiing opportunities. Call for pricing. If you must stay stateside, [consider Crested Butte]( which is more cowboy than Cartier and proving to be an incredible value alternative to the hubbub of Aspen-Snowmass.  [Another value alternative to a ritzy ski spot]( Saalbach instead of Kitzbühel in Austria. Source: Forsthofgut Nature Hotel Are there any restaurants at US resorts that deliver a European-worthy dining experience? I’ve spent nearly two decades skiing (and eating) my way around Europe, and I can confidently say [the food scene at US ski resorts]( has majorly upped its game over the last few years. And, yes, you should make reservations if you want to score a table. My go-to spots all channel the flavors and [vibe of Italy’s Dolomites](. I’m guilty of devoting an entire afternoon to [Sam’s]( a ski-in/ski-out lunch spot off the Village Express Lift in Snowmass, with dangerously good Negroni spritzes and outrageously good rigatoni Bolognese. Dynamic US restaurateurs are [taking their talents to the slopes]( like this caviar and cocktail spread at Mollie in Aspen. Source: Mollie North America’s second-highest fine-dining restaurant [Alpino Vino in Telluride]( is known for its massive charcuterie and cheese platters and deep selection of Barolo and Barbaresco. And [Cortina at Montage Big Sky]( guests to Northern Italy with its paccheri Bolognese topped with white truffle. This season, Denver’s Michelin-decorated Italian spot [Tavernetta]( will open [an outpost at the Four Seasons Vail](. I’ve already made my reservation. Why are so many skiers going up the mountain these days? Bloomberg contributor Gordy Megroz reported on [the hot trend of uphillin]( a few years ago and referred to the activity as masochistic. I’m one of those masochists who is totally on board. Some uphilling gear for you other masochists out there: Jones Solution splitboard, Pomoca skin, and Leki pole. [What else you need to know.]( Source: Vendors To uphill you need special boots and sticky adhesives called skins that attach to the bottom of your skis. As a snowboarder, I use a splitboard that can break apart into two planks to allow me to “skin” uphill, and then I click it back together at the top to swoosh down. Talk about earning your turns—it’s a killer workout. Resorts typically only allow uphilling before the lifts start spinning or once they’ve stopped. But the activity’s growing popularity is leading resorts like Buttermilk and Snowmass in Colorado to offer [dedicated uphill routes]( that can be used during normal operating hours. Aspen-Snowmass charges $69 for a season uphill pass—that’s a fraction of what a day pass to downhill would cost. Connect with Jen on [Instagram]( [X]( or [e-mail](mailto:jennymurf@yahoo.com?subject=Pursuits newsletter). Don’t miss Bloomberg’s new Weekend Edition, [a collection of idea-driven essays, reviews and stories]( on the fascinating places where finance, life and culture meet. Saturday’s Weekend Edition newsletter serves as a guide to the latest. [Read the second issue here]( and [sign up for e-mail delivery](. New for subscribers: Free article gifting. Bloomberg.com subscribers can now gift up to five free articles a month to anyone you want. 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